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NOTE: Spray rigs for commercial and residential foam insulation have the best spray foam equipment for foam insulation contractors. Spray on insulation is usually urethane foam insulation. Expanding foam insulation, closed cell foam insulation is used by insulation contractors for foam wall and pipe insulation. Remember, urethane foam and polyurethane insulation are good for wall insulation. FULL PROFITABILITY WILL RISE WITH THE
PROPER EQUIPMENT! CAN BE SENT AT DISCOUNT PRICES. YOU CAN
BUY NOW OR RENT. EQUIPMENT IS ON SALE WITH A PRICE COST OF
LOW DOLLARS AND CENTS. REFUND IS OFTEN IN CASH IF NOT SATISFIED.
IF YOU DECIDE TO BUILD YOUR OWN (DIY) YOU CAN OFTEN UTILIZE
LEFTOVERS FROM FACTORY SECONDS, SURPLUS , DISCONTINUED MERCHANDISE,
GARAGE CLEAN OUTS, WAREHOUSE CLEANOUT, RETAIL CLOSEOUTS, ITEMS
FROM FACTORY REJECTS, OUT OF BUSINESS SALES & FACTORY
CLEAN OUTS. FINALLY, DON'T OVERLOOK CLOSEOUTS! WHEN BUYING
ONLINE, PAYPAL, MASTERCARD, DISCOVER, AMERICAN EXPRESS, AND
VISA ARE ALMOST ALWAYS ACCEPTED. RENTALS OF FIRST AND SECOND
QUALITY ARE POSSIBLE. SPECIAL PRICES ALWAYS APPEAR AT CLOSEOUT
AND DISTRESSED SALES. WE DO NOT BROKER OR BUY THESE ITEMS
FOR RESALE. ORDINARILY, THE SALE PRICE IS FINAL FOR USED EQUIPMENT,
REPOSSESSIONS, JUNK, INSURANCE SALVAGE OR FREIGHT SALVAGE.
DISTRESSED MERCHANDISE CAN BE A GOOD SOURCE OF GENERAL SUPPLY
FOR INDUSTRIAL MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS. AGAIN, BUY NOW, BUY
NOW, BUY NOW. THE SALE PRICE MAY NEVER BE LOWER. SAVE $ $
$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $.
|
The thermal barrier is flowed or sprayed onto the
foamed polymeric material, optionally, with an adhesive interlayer
or "tie-coat" therebetween, to form a fire resistant laminate which
laminate meets the "15-minute finish rating" or "hourly rated" requirement
of building codes as determined by a testing procedure currently
designated.
Claims About Spray Foam Insulation
What is claimed about spray foam insulation is:
1. A fire-protective thermal barrier comprising
a cured thermosetting synthetic resinous material having dispersed
therein an effective amount of a finely divided, crystalline, hydrated
inorganic salt extender, sufficient to provide a predetermined level
of fire resistance as specifically determined by ASTM E-119-76 or
other fire resistance testing procedures, said hydrated extender
being characterized by having at least 35% by weight water of crystallization,
the major portion of which is released upon heating to a temperature
in the range from about 200.degree. F. but below 600.degree. F.
2. The fire-protective thermal barrier of claim
1 wherein said hydrated extender is selected from the group consisting
of hydrated salts of Group II A elements of the Periodic Table,
and said thermosetting resinous material is selected from the group
consisting of a polyester, polyrurethane, polyacrylate, epoxy and
urea-formaldehyde resin.
3. The fire-protective thermal barrier of claim
1 wherein said thermal barrier includes catalysts promoters, viscosity
modifiers and pigments.
4. The fire-protective thermal barrier of claim
1 including in addition to said hydrated extender, an inorganic
particulate filler in an amount from about 1 part by wt to about
15 parts by weight per 100 part of thermal barrier.
5. The fire-protective thermal barrier of claim
2 wherein said hydrated salts are selected from the group consisting
of magnesium sulfate heptahydrate, magnesium sulfite, and magnesium
monohydroorthophosphate.
6. The fire-protective thermal barrier of claim
5 wherein said magnesium sulfate heptahydrate (MgSO.sub.4.7H.sub.2
O) is present in an amount from about 30 parts to about 80 parts
by weight per 100 parts of mixed resin an hydrated extender.
7. The fire-protective thermal barrier of claim
1 further charactized, in that it is essentially impermeable to
moisture, said thermal barrier in a thickness of 0.135 inch having
a perm rating of 0.0295 as determined by testing procedure designated
ASTM E 96-66, and impact resistance in excess of about 20 inch pounds
as determined by the Gardner Drop Dart test.
8. A fire-protective insulating laminate comprising
a foam plastic and bonded thereto a thermal barrier comprising a
cured thermosetting synthetic resinous material having dispersed
therein an effective amount of a finely divided, crystalline, hydrated
inorganic salt extender, sufficient to provide a predetermined level
of fire resistance as determined specifically by a testing procedure
designated ASTM E-119-76, or other fire resistance testing procedures,
said hydrated extender being characterized by having at least 35%
by weight water of crystallization, the major portion of which is
released upon heating to a temperature in the range from about 200.degree.
F. but below 600.degree. F.
9. The fire-protective laminate of claim 8 wherein
said hydrated extender is selected from the group consisting of
hydrated salts of Group II A elements of the Periodic Table, and
said thermosetting synthetic resinous material is selected from
the group consisting of a polyester, polyurethane, polyacrylate,
epoxy, and urea-formaldehyde resin.
10. The fire-protective laminate of claim 8 including
in addition to said hydrated extender, an inorganic particulate
filler in an amount from about 1 part by weight to about 15 parts
by weight per 100 parts of thermal barrier.
11. The fire-protective laminate of claim 8 wherein
said thermal barrier includes catalysts, promoters, viscosity modifiers
and pigments.
12. The fire-protective laminate of claim 8 wherein
said foam plastic is a synthetic material selected from the group
consisting of a polyurethane foam, a polyisocyanurate foam, a urea-formaldehyde
foam, and a polystyrene foam.
13. The fire-protective laminate of claim 9 wherein
said hydrated salts are selected from the group consisting of magnesium
sulfate heptahydrate, magnesium sulfite, and magnesium monohydroorthophosphate.
14. The fire-protective laminate of claim 13 wherein
said magnesium sulfate heptahydrate (MgSO.sub.4.7H.sub.2 O) is present
in an amount from about 30 parts to about 80 parts by weight per
100 parts of mixed resin and hydrated extender.
15. The fire-protective laminate of claim 10 wherein
said foam plastic and said thermal barrier are each selectively
field-applied.
16. The fire-protective laminate of claim 8 wherein
said foam plastic consists essentially of a synthetic resinous material
selected from the group consisting of a polyurethane foam, a polyisocyanurate
foam, a urea-formaldehyde foam, and a polystyrene foam.
17. The fire-protective laminate of claim 8 wherein
said thermal barrier is self-adhered to said foam plastic.
18. A fire-protective insulating panel comprising
an inner and outer skin and a laterally coextensive laminate bonded
thereto, said laminate comprising a foam plastic and bonded to one
side a thermal barrier comprising a cured thermosetting synthetic
resinous material having dispersed therein an effective amount of
a finely divided, crystalline, hydrated inorganic salt extender,
sufficient to provide a predetermined level of fire resistance as
specifically determined by testing procedure designated ASTM E-119-76,
or other fire resistance testing procedures, said hydrated extender
being characterized by having at least 35% by weight of crystallization,
the major portion of which is released upon heating to a temperature
in the range from about 200.degree. F. but below 600.degree. F.
19. The fire-protective insulating panel of claim
18 including in addition, an inner and outer skin and a laterally
coextensive laminate bonded thereto, said laminate comprising a
foam plastic and bonded to each side a first and second thermal
barrier, said second thermal barrier being of similar composition
to said first thermal barrier.
20. A spraying or flowing method for forming a fire-protective
laminate comprising a foam plastic and, bonded thereto, a thermal
barrier comprising a mixture of liquid thermosetting synthetic resin
and said inorganic material dispersed therein, said method comprising:
(a) admixing into said liquid resin from about 30
parts to about 80 parts by weight of a hydrated inorganic salt extender
consisting essentially of a hydrated salt of a Group II A element,
said hydrated salt being present in the size range from about 10
U.S. Standard mesh to about 325 mesh,
(b) admixing into said liquid resin sufficient catalyst
to provide cured resin in a predetermined period of time, and
(c) bonding said resin to a foam plastic to form
said laminate, so as to provide said laminate with fire resistant
properties sufficient to meet the requirements as determined by
a testing procedure designated ASTM E-119-76 or other fire resistance
testing procedures.
21. The method of claim 20 including continuously
forming a building panel having a foam plastic core comprising applying
a predetermined thickness of said resin, including catalyst, heating
said thickness of resin to effect an incomplete cure, and foaming
said foam plastic in place on said resin prior to said resin being
fully cured, so as subsequently to effect bonding of said foam plastic
to said cured resin.
22. The method of claim 20 comprising applying said
thermal barrier to foam plastic board stock.
23. The method of claim 20 comprising spraying said
thermal barrier in a fluent state on foam plastic which is applied
to walls, ceilings, decks, roofs and the exterior surfaces of tanks,
vessels and pipes. Spray foam can be used as an insulating and air
sealing product for residential wall and ceiling cavities. The insulation
is sprayed, via special equipment, into wall cavities and expands
to fill all the nooks and crannies in a wall cavity. Excess foam
is scraped off the studs to form a uniform wall cavity. Spray foam
insulation makes it easy to completely fill wall cavities with insulation
and to perform air sealing in the same step.
There are two types of spray foam: open-cell (isocyanurate)
and closed cell (polyurethane). The closed cell foams typically
have a higher R-value than open-cell foam.
Sprayed foam insulation is applied as a liquid which
contains a polymer (such as polyurethane or modified urethane) and
a foaming agent. The liquid is sprayed through a nozzle into wall,
ceiling, and floor cavities where it expands to fill every nook
and cranny. Because it expands into tight areas, sprayed foam is
ideal for insulating steel framing and around outlets. By acting
as a wind and air barrier, it often eliminates the need for separate
air-tightness detailing which can increase energy efficiency and
allow downsizing of the heating and cooling system equipment. Sprayed
foam insulation does not shrink, sag, settle, or biodegrade.
Spray-Insulation Limited supplies Handi-Foam DIY
Spray Foam Insulation kits for do-it-yourself Insulation projects.
Handi-Foam is a 2 component, polyurethane expanding foam system,
which is easy to use.
Converting a loft?
Handi-foam Spray-on Insulation is the ideal way
to insulate your loft conversion without the need for costly insulation
contractors. What's more, Handi-foam is an excellent foam sealant
as spray foam is the only true seamless insulation on the market.
Traditional insulation board and batts all require
accurate cutting and edge sealing to prevent unwanted draughts.
Handi-foam Spray-on Insulation expands to seal gaps
and uneven surfaces and insulates at the same time! This is particularly
important under the new building regulations (April 2006) that require
air-leakage testing of buildings to reduce energy requirements.
What is Spray Foam
Insulation?
Spray Foam, Spray Insulation, Expanding Foam and
Foam sealant are common terms for insulation, which is sprayed into
place unlike traditional sheets or rolls of insulation, which must
be cut and fixed into place.
It is produced from two liquid components that,
when combined and sprayed, produce an expanding foam froth. This
expanding foam froth then hardens within 3-5 minutes to form a rigid
foam with excellent insulating properties. Sprayed foam insulation
is now available in do-it-yourself (DIY) kits.
Visit our Spray Foam Video Page for video clips
of spray foam insulation in action!
Typical applications
for Spray on Foam Insulation include:
DIY roof, loft and attic insulation. Insulating
foam sprayed onto the underside of roof tiles not only insulates,
but fixes the tiles in place and prevents slippage - perfect for
roofs which are past their prime.
NOTE: Spray rigs for commercial and residential foam insulation have the best spray foam equipment for foam insulation contractors. Spray on insulation is usually urethane foam insulation. Expanding foam insulation, closed cell foam insulation is used by insulation contractors for foam wall and pipe insulation. Remember, urethane foam and polyurethane insulation are good for wall insulation. FULL PROFITABILITY WILL RISE WITH THE
PROPER EQUIPMENT! CAN BE SENT AT DISCOUNT PRICES. YOU CAN
BUY NOW OR RENT. EQUIPMENT IS ON SALE WITH A PRICE COST OF
LOW DOLLARS AND CENTS. REFUND IS OFTEN IN CASH IF NOT SATISFIED.
IF YOU DECIDE TO BUILD YOUR OWN (DIY) YOU CAN OFTEN UTILIZE
LEFTOVERS FROM FACTORY SECONDS, SURPLUS , DISCONTINUED MERCHANDISE,
GARAGE CLEAN OUTS, WAREHOUSE CLEANOUT, RETAIL CLOSEOUTS, ITEMS
FROM FACTORY REJECTS, OUT OF BUSINESS SALES & FACTORY
CLEAN OUTS. FINALLY, DON'T OVERLOOK CLOSEOUTS! WHEN BUYING
ONLINE, PAYPAL, MASTERCARD, DISCOVER, AMERICAN EXPRESS, AND
VISA ARE ALMOST ALWAYS ACCEPTED. RENTALS OF FIRST AND SECOND
QUALITY ARE POSSIBLE. SPECIAL PRICES ALWAYS APPEAR AT CLOSEOUT
AND DISTRESSED SALES. WE DO NOT BROKER OR BUY THESE ITEMS
FOR RESALE. ORDINARILY, THE SALE PRICE IS FINAL FOR USED EQUIPMENT,
REPOSSESSIONS, JUNK, INSURANCE SALVAGE OR FREIGHT SALVAGE.
DISTRESSED MERCHANDISE CAN BE A GOOD SOURCE OF GENERAL SUPPLY
FOR INDUSTRIAL MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS. AGAIN, BUY NOW, BUY
NOW, BUY NOW. THE SALE PRICE MAY NEVER BE LOWER. SAVE $ $
$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $.
|
Spray on Foam Insulation for Barn conversions and
renovation. The foam can be sprayed between beams and joists, which
greatly reduces the time to do the job when compared to traditional
insulating methods.
Insulating Narrowboats, canal boats & Barges
- preventing condensation and improving your comfort.
Insulation of Dormer window and Bay window roofs
- preventing heat loss and condensation in architectural features.
Cellar or basement insulation - The cured foam can
be plastered or sanded and painted.
Spa bath and Jacuzzi Insulation to reduce heat loss
and save energy.
Summerhouse Insulation - beat the heat in summer.
What are the Advantages
of Spray Foam?
The properties of
Handi-Foam Spray Foam Insulation make it versatile for many uses:
The sprayed foam sticks to most surfaces including
metal, wood, bricks, concrete and tiles, making it easy and quick
to apply.
The closed cell structure of two Component Polyurethane
Foam makes it ideal for buoyancy or flotation applications
The kits produce an expanding polyurethane foam
which expands at a ratio of 8:1 which makes it perfect
for void filling and sealing out cold drafts.
The Quick Cure nature of the Spray Foam means it
can be sprayed onto walls and roofs (just like paint) and it won't
drip or sag.
The Slow Rise version of foam can be injected into
a cavity or moulds where the expanding foam and fills the void before
curing.
Closed-cell polyurethane foam insulation has been
proven in commercial and residential buildings for more than 30
years. In liquid spray form, it fills in cavities between wall studs,
window and door frames, surface irregularities and gaps around plumbing,
wiring and HVAC components. The foam surrounds the structure in
a lightweight blanket of insulation that creates a controlled comfort
zone inside the home and contributes to its overall structural integrity.
Here are some of
the benefits of spray foam insulation made with RUBINATE® Products
waste energy. Unsealed spaces around windows and
doors, for example, are among the most recognized culprits. But
hidden air movement behind walls, under baseboards, around joists,
plumbing and electrical connections can also cause energy bills
to skyrocket. Air movement through the shell of a home disrupts
its interior temperature, air pressure and humidity levels, causing
heat to move out of the house in winter, and into the home in summer
and, in turn, causing HVAC systems to work even harder to maintain
comfort levels.
If these "invisible" gaps aren't found and sealed
before the house is finished, it will waste energy the rest of its
life. Spray foam insulation with RUBINATE® Products provides the
solution
There is no better home insulating material that
can seal your home from air and moisture intrusion, save on costly
utility bills, strengthen your home, and protect your family’s health
from dangerous mold than Spray Foam insulation.
Benefits of Spray Foam Insulation
Often times no expensive building wrap or additional
vapor protection is required during construction when using SPF,
saving money yet again.
High R-Value
Sprayed polyurethane foam has an aged R-value of
approximately 6.0 per 1 inch thickness (depending on the particular
formulation and application, higher values have been achieved),
enabling it to provide more thermal resistance with less material
than any other type of commercial insulation material. SPF systems
are frequently used to insulate and protect a wide variety of residential,
commercial, and industrial buildings.
Monthly energy and utility savings of 30% or greater
can be achieved when compared to the alternative roofing and insulation
systems. The cost of an SPF roof or insulation system can often
be recovered in less than 5 years, simply through energy savings
alone.
Prevents Air, Moisture and Gas Infiltration
Studies have shown that as much as 40% of a building’s
total energy loss is due to air infiltration. Traditional fiberglass
insulation is only stapled, or placed into the wall cavities and
does not seal the stud and wall cavities from end to end, or top
to bottom. Air infiltration can pass through these gaps, making
it far less efficient than SPF. SPF not only adheres to, but forms
to the walls and floors to create a tight seal and insulating barrier
that stops this air leakage. SPF also boasts the highest R-value
per inch than any other commercial material, (upwards of R-7.0,
compared with Fiberglass at R-3.5) making your home more comfortable
and less expensive to heat in the winter, and cool in the summer.
Since SPF acts as an air barrier, it also helps
to reduce moisture infiltration, which is a source of dangerous
mold and mildew growth in the home, and can cause severe health
problems to its occupants. So save your family and save money at
the same time with SPF home insulation systems. Moisture infiltration
can also cause structural damage to your home or building.
Helps Reduce Moisture and Mold
Molds produce tiny spores to reproduce. Mold spores
waft through the indoor and outdoor air continually. When mold spores
land on a damp spot indoors, they may begin growing and digesting
whatever they are growing on in order to survive. There are molds
that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods. When excessive
moisture or water accumulates indoors, mold growth will often occur,
particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or un-addressed.
There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores
in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth
is to control moisture. SPF insulation is the key. Watch Video...
Enhances Overall Building Stability
Since SPF is seamless and monolithic, foam sprayed
into the walls enhances overall building stability and reduces “rack
and sheer.” More...
Types of Insulation
There are four basic types of insulation: loose
fill, batts and blankets, rigid board and spray foam. The most appropriate
type of insulation to use will vary based on the type of construction,
the extent of the rehabilitation planned and applicable code requirements.
Loose-fill Insulation
Loose-fill insulation includes loose fibers or fiber
pellets that are blown into building cavities or attics using special
equipment. It generally costs more than batt insulation. However,
it usually fills nooks and crannies easier, reduces air leakage
better, and provides better sound insulation than natt-type insulation.
Cellulose fiber, made from recycled newspapers,
is chemically treated for fire and moisture resistance. (Check that
the bags are clearly labeled to indicate that the material meets
federal specifications for fire resistance). It can be installed
in walls, floors or attics using a dry-pack process or a moist-spray
technique.
Fiberglass and rock wool loose-fill insulation provide
full coverage with a "Blow-in Blanket" System (BIBS) that involves
blowing insulation into open stud cavities behind a net.
Loose-fill insulation typically has a value of approximately
R-3 to R-4 per inch. Cellulose fiber has approximately 30% more
insulating value than loose-fill rock wool for the same number of
inches installed.
More information about loose-fill insulation is
available from the Department of Energy.
Batt and Blanket Insulation
Batt and blanket insulation is made of mineral fiber
-- either processed fiberglass or rock wool -- and is used to insulate
below floors, above ceilings, and within walls. Generally, batt
insulation is the least expensive wall insulation material but requires
careful installation for effective performance.
This type of insulation is best suited to a standard
joist, rafter, or stud spacing of 16 or 24 inches. Batts and blankets
come in widths to fit securely between the wood-framing members.
Some come with a radiant barrier backing. Batts generally come in
lengths of 4 or 8 feet. Blankets come in long rolls that are cut
to the desired length for installation. Both batts and blankets
typically have an R-value of approximately R-3 per inch of thickness.
Rigid Board Insulation
Rigid board insulation is commonly made from fiberglass,
polystyrene, or polyurethane and comes in a variety of thicknesses
with a high insulating value (approximately R-4 to R-8 per inch).
This type of insulation is used for reproofing work on flat roofs,
on basement walls and as perimeter insulation at concrete slab edges,
and in cathedral ceilings.
For interior applications it must be covered with
1/2-inch gypsum board or other building-code approved material for
fire safety. For exterior applications it must be covered with weather-proof
facing. Check the applicable codes to determine local requirements
for covering rigid board insulation to achieve fire resistance.
Spray Foam Insulation
Spray foam insulation is a two-part liquid containing
a polymer (such as polyurethane or modified urethane) and a foaming
agent. The liquid is sprayed through a nozzle into wall, ceiling,
and floor cavities. As it is applied it expands into a solid cellular
plastic with millions of tiny air-filled cells that fill every nook
and cranny. Spray foam insulation should be applied by a professional
using special equipment to meter, mix, and spray into place. Spray
foam insulation is commonly used for retrofits; it is good for irregularly
shaped areas and around obstructions
Spray foam materials cost more than traditional
batt insulation. However, since spray foam forms both an insulation
and an air barrier, it can be cost competitive with batt insulation
because it eliminates the steps for air-tightness detailing (such
as caulking, Insulation Basics
Insulation is one of the most effective ways to
save energy. Heating and cooling costs comprise more than 50% of
the energy consumed in a single family home. Adding the recommended
levels of insulation will save energy, reduce utility costs and
improve comfort. Proper installation is critical; gaps and compressed
areas will dramatically reduce effectiveness.
Insulation provides additional benefits including
noise reduction, fire resistance and safety. Factors that affect
the performance of insulation, and should be considered when choosing
the appropriate type for the job, are insulating capacity, fire
resistance, moisture control, convective heat loss, settling and
loss of insulating capacity.
Before You Insulate With
Spray Foam Insulation
Conduct thorough air sealing. Adding insulation
may make some air leaks difficult to access. The insulation itself
typically will not stop these leaks. Air flowing through the insulation
will waste energy. Moist air can damage the insulation and reduce
its effectiveness.
Control moisture. Rain can penetrate through improper
flashing and leaks around doors, windows, chimneys and poorly-installed
siding. Fix these problems and install a vapor retarder. Remove
any existing insulation that has gotten wet.
Check your building code to determine if you need
to add ventilation (in attics and crawlspaces). Ensure that insulation
will not block existing vents.
Inspect the area for any exposed wiring. Be sure
it is in good condition and will not present a fire hazard.
Recessed light fixtures can be a major source of
heat loss, but you need to be careful how close you place insulation
next to a fixture unless it is marked "I.C."-designed for direct
insulation contact. Check your local building codes for recommendations.
Where to Insulate With Spray Foam Insulation
Walls, ceilings, attics, floors and ducts should
be well-insulated. Insulation is rated according to its R-Value,
or its ability to resist heat flow, with a high R-Value being a
greater resistance. A guide to help you determine the recommended
levels of insulation in each part of your home is available through
the U.S. Department of Energy.
Ceilings: Attics are easy to access in single family
homes and low multifamily buildings with pitched roofs. Multi-family
buildings with flat roofs should be insulated when roof replacement
or repair work is needed.
Exterior Walls: Wall insulation is often difficult
to upgrade unless the interior walls (drywall or other wallboard)
or the exterior siding are being replaced in the rehabilitation
project. Existing uninsulated frame walls can often have their cavities
filled with blown-in cellulose insulation in a cost-effective manner.
If the outside siding is being replaced, it is often cost effective
to apply rigid foam insulation on the outside of the framing before
the siding is installed.
Floors: Floors are usually easy to access. If the
basement or space underneath the floor is not conditioned (like
a garage), uninsulated floors can be a significant source of heat
loss from the living space.
Basements: If the basement space is conditioned
and the climate is cold, uninsulated basement walls will be a significant
source of heat loss. Basement insulation systems must be carefully
considered because of the inherent moisture problems and the resulting
mold problems that may be exacerbated by inappropriately insulating
a basement. Furring out and insulating the inside of the wall is
often possible and cost-effective. Generally, if below-grade walls
"sweat" or if moisture is a problem at these walls, only insulate
the above-grade portion of the walls.
Crawl Spaces: The perimeter walls of enclosed crawl
spaces should be insulated in cold climates. For ventilated crawl
spaces, the floor above should be insulated.
Duct Sealing and Insulation
A heating or cooling system can only be as good
as the ducts that carry the conditioned air through your home. Ducts
are typically made of sheet metal, fiberglass, or other materials.
They can lose energy in two ways, by conduction of heat through
the material and by air leaking through cracks and seams.
Locating and Sealing Leaks
Not sure how to tell if your ducts need some improving?
You may want to call an energy professional to locate leaks and
pressure imbalances. A professional will use diagnostics tools,
such as a blower door, duct blaster, and digital manometer to identify
leaks and imbalances. You can conduct a visual check of your ducts
to look for holes or separated joints; however, ducts are often
"hidden" under floors or in walls, which limits the effectiveness
of visual inspections.
Seal duct leaks with fiberglass mesh and mastic,
mechanical fasteners, or foil tape, but do not use duct tape.
When to Insulate
Lack of proper insulation is a common and costly
problem. Without insulation, ducts will leak heated air into spaces
intended to be unheated, such as crawl spaces. If you find that
your ducts are uninsulated or leaking air, it is time to repair
these problems.
Ducts that run through unconditioned spaces, like
crawlspaces or basements, should be insulated. If you are unsure
of whether or not to insulate, simply place your hand on the duct
material. If it feels warm (or cool if distributing cool air), you
need insulation. Insulate your ducts to R-6.
If you are insulating heating ducts in an unconditioned
space, insulate any water pipes as well. If there are uninsulated
ducts and pipes in the same area, the heat escaping from the ducts
may be helping to keep the pipes from freezing. For this reason,
the water pipes could freeze and burst if they remain uninsulated.
Cooling ducts will also require a well sealed vapor barrier on the
outside of the insulation to prevent moisture buildup.
You may need to call in a qualified professional
to perform these improvements. If you are installing a new duct
system entirely, refer to the Design and Construction of Interior
Duct System [.pdf] provided by DOE's Building America program. It
is strongy advised to call in a qualified professional as this is
a large job.
Air Sealing
Air infiltration may contribute to as much as 30%
of your building's heating and cooling costs. Infiltration wastes
energy and money, and contributes to moisture, noise and dust problems.
These openings may also serve as an entry way for unwanted pests.
Finding Leaks
Areas that may have significant leaks are near the
attic, crawlspace, or basement, and around windows, doors, and chimneys.
Plumbing chases, electrical outlets, attic accesses, and dropped
ceilings are other likely suspects. Leaky ducts are also a big source
of loss. Your heating system may be working hard to heat and distribute
air that never reaches its intended destination.
You will be able to detect large cracks and gaps
in the walls by the resulting drafts. You can hold an incense stick
near suspect areas and watch the smoke for telltale drafts. However,
you may need to hire a contractor to run tests to determine the
location of smaller air leaks. An energy professional will use diagnostic
tools such as a blower door to locate air leaks and pressure imbalances.
Fixing Leaks
Holes in the envelope of the house should be repaired
from largest to smallest.
Air sealing should be performed before insulation
is added as gaps and cracks in the wall will allow air passage,
decreasing the effectiveness of the insulation.
Air sealing should be performed in conjunction with
an assessment of the building's ventilation system to ensure adequate
indoor air quality. This is especially important when combustion
appliances, such as gas-fired water heaters, are present. Without
proper ventilation these appliances can backdraft and draw exhaust
gases, including carbon monoxide, into the living space. This can
pose a potential health hazard.
Materials
There are several materials that may be used for
air sealing, depending on the purpose.
Backer rod - Closed-cell foam or rope caulk. Press
into crack or gap with screwdriver or putty knife. Often used with
caulk around window and door rough openings.
Caulk- For sealing gaps of less than ½ inch.
Spray Foam- To fill large cracks and small holes.
A few precautions should be heeded when using spray foam: do not
use near flammable applications and do not use expanding foams around
windows and doors.
Weatherstripping - To seal areas with moveable components
such as doors and windows.
For larger areas:
Housewrap - To form an airtight seal over the exterior
sheathing, housewrap must be sealed with tape or caulk. Does not
provide a vapor barrier.
Polyethylene Plastic - To serve as a vapor and air
barrier. This material may be used for sealing complicated leakage
areas that may be of irregular shape.
Asbestos As a Hazard During Remodeling
Asbestos was used in thermal insulation and floor
tiles prior to 1980. Intact and undisturbed asbestos does not pose
a health risk. Asbestos becomes a problem when, due to damage, disturbance,
or deterioration over time, the material releases fibers into the
air. Therefore, during remodeling and renovation activities, asbestos
exposure can become a problem.
What is asbestos?
Asbestos refers to a mineral fiber, with the term
describing six naturally occurring minerals found in rock formations.
The compound consists of silicon, oxygen, hydrogen, and various
metal components. These mineral fibers are very small and light,
normally invisible to the naked eye. Their use in insulation is
due to the fact that they are heat resistant and extremely durable.
The presence of asbestos is not necessarily health threatening.
As long as the material is not damaged and it is well sealed, not
allowing mineral to escape, there is no associated health risk.
When the material can be crushed or reduced to powder by hand pressure,
allowing pieces to escape, a health risk may be imposed.
Why was it used?
In the past, asbestos was added to a variety of
products to strengthen them and to provide heat insulation and fire
resistance. Asbestos became popular in commercial buildings until
the early 1970s because it is durable, a fire retardant, corrosion
resistant and a good insulator. It is estimated that there are 3,000
different types of commercial products containing some amount of
asbestos.
What are the associated health effects?
Asbestos fibers can cause serious health problems
if inhaled. The tiny fibers can impair normal lung functions, and
increase the risk of developing lung cancer, mesothelioma (a cancer
of the chest and abdominal linings), or asbestosis (irreversible
lung scarring that can be fatal). Symptoms do not surface immediately
but the long term risks include chest and abdominal cancers and
lung diseases. Symptoms may not be present anywhere from 20 to 30
years after the first exposure. Severe health problems from exposure
have been experienced by workers who held jobs in industries such
as shipbuilding, mining, milling, and fabricating.
How do I know if asbestos is in my home? How do
I get rid of it?
If you suspect a material in your home contains
asbestos, treat it as if it does until you can get it tested. The
only way to be sure whether or not you have asbestos in your home
is to have the material tested in a laboratory. Look in your local
directory under Asbestos or Laboratories for specialists that are
able to perform these tests.
Typical places you may find asbestos in your home
include, but are not limited to, the following:
Insulation Roofing and siding shingles
Textures paint or patching compounds on wall and
ceiling joints
Stove top pads
Vinyl floor tiles
Blanket or insulating tape around hot water and
steam pipes in older houses
Insulation on oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets
Soundproofing or decorative material sprayed on
walls and ceilings
Remember, asbestos that is kept intact and properly
sealed will not pose a danger. If it is in good condition, leave
it alone. If the material is damaged at all, do not touch or move
the material yourself. Call a professional to perform this work.
Before you remodel your home, find out whether or not asbestos is
present in your home.
Vapor Barriers or Vapor Retarders
A vapor retarder is a specially treated paper, thin
plastic sheeting, or low permeance paint that prevents condensation
of water vapor inside wall or ceiling materials. This trapped moisture
can cause damage to the wallboard and paint as well as structural
deterioration.
The vapor retarder must have a vapor permeance (the
rate that moisture can pass through materials) of not more than
1.0 perm (tested in accordance with ASTM Standard E96-80).
The term "vapor barrier", which is also commonly
used, is somewhat misleading since it does not completely bar the
transmission of water vapor. A vapor barrier is actually a vapor-resistant
membrane, and is more properly called a "vapor retarder."
Location of Vapor Retarder
Interior moisture tries to move out of a building.
Vapor retarders are important, because they keep this moisture in
a warm area where it will not condense. For this reason, vapor retarders
should be applied (in colder climates) behind the drywall of a wall
or ceiling next to existing insulation and on the warm-in-winter
side (between the insulation and the conditioned space) of insulated
floor sections over crawl spaces.
NOTE: Spray rigs for commercial and residential foam insulation have the best spray foam equipment for foam insulation contractors. Spray on insulation is usually urethane foam insulation. Expanding foam insulation, closed cell foam insulation is used by insulation contractors for foam wall and pipe insulation. Remember, urethane foam and polyurethane insulation are good for wall insulation. FULL PROFITABILITY WILL RISE WITH THE
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Caution : Because moisture may be trapped between
the two vapor retarders and eventually ruin the installation, if
additional insulation is added during your remodeling project, be
sure that a second vapor retarder is not applied between layers
of insulation. There is a chance that this second vapor retarder
might be added inadvertantly during an insulation upgrade because
some batt insulation comes with a vapor retarder integrally attached
in the form of paper or aluminum-like sheating.
HVAC in Single Family Housing
HVAC refers to the equipment, distribution network,
and terminals that provide the heating, ventilating, or air-conditioning
processes to a building. Your system may consist of a central unit
with ducts that carry conditioned air to the living space, controlled
by a programmable thermostat. Or you may have individual units that
condition specific rooms, such as a room air conditioner or electric
baseboard heat.
During any rehabilitation project, it is very important
to assess the condition, reliability and efficiency of the heating
system. Poor operation of the heating system will often lead to
comfort problems for occupants, higher energy bills, increased maintenance
demands and even structural problems from excess moisture.
Effect of Building Envelope
When evaluating the overall efficiency of your HVAC
system it is critical to consider related building components, including
air sealing, windows and insulation. If your building envelope is
leaky, conditioned air will escape and the mechanical equipment
will work harder to compensate.
You should conduct any air sealing and insulation
measures first before selecting a new HVAC system. You may be able
to down-size your HVAC system by tightening the building envelope.
This will save money on the initial investment as well as on your
monthly energy bills.
Tune-up
Sometimes, existing equipment can be made more efficient
by giving the heating and cooling systems a simple cleaning and
tune-up. Basic repairs such as replacement of a faulty burner nozzle
can result in significant savings.
New Controls
Don't forget to consider upgrading your controls.
Programmable thermostats are a cost-effective measure for reducing
energy consumption. The thermostat will automatically adjust the
temperature during different times of day, to meet the occupants'
heating and cooling needs while home, sleeping and away.
Other Considerations
Existing construction features can also have an
effect on HVAC system type. Consider a house that has no chimney
-- or a chimney in very poor condition. Equipment developed over
the last 15 years or so may provide the answer. High-efficiency
condensing appliances require only a sidewall vent rather than a
chimney.
In the evaluation of existing systems, an experienced
contractor may be able to provide helpful advice and guidance. For
multifamily buildings, the size and complexities of the installation
will typically require the assistance of a professional engineer.
Selecting a New Energy Efficient Heating System
When replacing your heating system, there are several
options depending on the type of heating fuel available. When shopping
for the right unit for your home, heating efficiencies may be compared
according to their AFUE, annual fuel utilization efficiency. The
AFUE is a ratio expressing the heat output compared to the energy
consumed by the furnace or boiler. A higher AFUE translates into
a more efficient appliance.
Points to Consider
When choosing your new heating system consider:
What is the home's heating load?
What is the condition of the existing duct system
or piping?
Are the proper insulation levels installed? Has
thorough air sealing been conducted?
Installing a system that is oversized (has more
capacity than needed) will waste energy. Conduct thorough air sealing
and install the proper levels of insulation first. This will reduce
the heating load and most likely allow you to downsize your heating
system.
You may want to have a professional assess your
home and its heating needs and recommend the type and size of system
you should purchase. Contact the Air Conditioning Contractors of
America for a listing of members in your area.
You can find the most up to date information on
the types of heating units available in your area as well as any
incentives that may come with them through your State energy office
or ENERGY STAR.
Gas or Oil
If your heating fuel is gas or oil, opt for a sealed
combustion unit, rather than one that releases the gases right into
your home. Sealed combustion appliances are vented to the outside
so the fumes from fuel burning are delivered to the outside without
entering your home and the unit takes fresh air straight from the
outdoors as a supply for the combustion process. This eliminates
the risk of dangerous combustion gases entering your home and causing
health problems.
Two of the most important factors to keep in mind
are size and efficiency.
Types of Gas or Oil Systems
Forced air systems are the typical heating system
in today's American homes, the main components being the furnace,
ducting to transport the heated air and supply and return grills.
Hot water systems use boiler heated water which
gets circulated through radiators, baseboard heaters, radiant floors
or fan forced coils. Steam systems are less efficient than forced
air or hot water because they require hotter temperatures to produce
the steam. They do not require any pumps or forced circulation as
the steam moves itself through pipes. It is essential to use good
fiberglass insulation around the piping to avoid delivering heat
to unfinished areas of the house. A professional HVAC technician
can assist you in your decision on what type and sized system is
best for your situation.
Gas or oil space heaters should always be vented
to the outdoors. Using unvented propane, kerosene or oil space heaters
can be very dangerous and is not recommended.
Electric Heating
You can simplify your system by using an electric
heat pump. An electric heat pump can serve both heating and cooling
needs. This system is best suited for houses in climates of moderate
heating and cooling needs.
In the cold season, heat pumps move heat from the
cool outdoors into your home and heat from your home to the outdoors
in the warm season. Heat pumps use electricity to move heat rather
than create heat, providing an energy efficient alternative to furnaces
and boilers.
Electric Air Source heat pumps transfer heat between
the air outdoors and the air within your home. ENERGY STAR qualified
models have a 12 SEER cooling efficiency and a 7.0 HSPF for heating.
A more efficient form of heat pump is the ground
source heat pump, which transfers heat between your home and the
ground rather than your home and the outdoor air. To learn more
about choosing the appropriate heat pump for your home, see the
Department of Energy's Building Technologies site.
Post Purchase
After you have purchased your new heating system,
you should keep all warranty information, receipts, safety and operation
directions, and the contact information of the manufacturer in a
central location. Read about maintenance tips.
Selecting a New Air Conditioner
Now that you have decided that you're ready to purchase
a new air conditioner, consider the following to help make your
decision.
The three important things to keep in mind when
looking for a new air conditioner are: correctly sizing the unit,
choosing an efficient model, and getting the unit installed properly.
Also consider the type of filter required. Reusable filters can
be cleaned and reused whereas disposable filters are only used once
and then you must purchase a new one. Also, some filters catch smaller
particles than other. For example, some newer units have electrostatic
filters, which will remove extremely small particles out of the
air. Those with allergies or respiratory problems may want to consider
these types of filters.
Room Air Conditioners
When purchasing a new room air conditioner unit,
there are several options you may want to look for. The unit should
have, in the very least, an adjustable thermostat, a minimum of
two cooling settings, two fan speeds, an adjustable vent and an
exhaust vent setting. You can learn more about air conditioners,
how they work and some basic maintenance tips from the DOE's Consumer
Energy Information Center.
Central Air Conditioners
When choosing a new central air conditioning system,
look for one with a minimum SEER of 12. A SEER of 12 or more is
considered high efficiency, the best available currently at 17.
ENERGY STAR qualified models are available with a higher SEER and
can save you 20% on your cooling bill with its 25-40% greater efficiency
than standard ten year old models. The cooling system will include
both the outdoor condensing unit and the indoor air handler. A contractor
can help you in choosing the right system for your home.
Be sure you purchase your new air conditioning system
from an authorized dealer or some manufacturers will not honor warrantees
and rebates. Your salesperson should be able to tell you what the
warranty is on your unit. Consider parts as well as labor. Labor
costs can be very high for replacing a compressor for example, so
look for a warranty that covers both. Always hang on to the receipt
to provide proof of purchase when you go to use the warranty.
Tuning Up Your Heating System
When it's time to tune up your heating and cooling
system, consult your utility company. Most companies will have a
certified technician or be able to provide you with a list of trained
service technicians that may be available to perform this service
for a fee. There are also precautions you can take to maintain and
improve the condition of your heating system yourself.
Oil Furnaces and Boilers
Gas furnace or boilers should be cleaned and serviced
annually. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose connections
or corrosion. Call the gas company immediately if gas odors are
detected. Do not use anything with an open flame until this is checked
out. Check for burn marks, which would indicate a draft or combustion
problem. Check for oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air
systems. This may indicate a cracked heat exchanger and a technician
must be contacted.
Electric
Have a qualified technician inspect electric furnaces
and boilers to ensure proper functioning and no loose or burned
connections.
Heat Pumps/Cooling
Heat pumps require the attention of a qualified
technician. The outdoor section should be level. If the outdoor
component has settled or become uneven, adjustments should be made
by a specialist. Most manufacturers advise keeping the outdoor component
uncovered during the winter months to prevent rust. Always keep
the outdoor unit clean.
Other
Check for creosote build up on wood stoves. Creosote
may be spotted as an oily liquid that appears colorless to yellowish.
It contains phenols and creosols as a result of destructive distillation
of wood tar. Exposure to this substance can cause severe neurological
disturbances if inhaled in strong concentrations. (Check for buildup
more frequently in colder climates, where wood stove may be used
more frequently)
Cooling System Do It Yourself Maintenance
When it comes time to tune up your heating and cooling
system, consult your utility company. Most companies will have a
certified technician or be able to provide you with a list of trained
service technicians that may be available to perform this service
for a fee. There are also steps you can take to maintain and improve
the condition of your cooling system yourself.
Clear Obstructions
Keep outdoor condenser unit free from debris as
needed. Make sure there are no obstructions near the unit that can
block the flow of air. Clear out any grass, branches, or any other
items that may have accumulated outdoors. If you find dirt or debris
in the unit, you may need the assistance of a service technician.
Filters
Check air filters for spray
foam insulation at the start of the cooling season and increase
frequency to monthly during the season while in use, replacing as
necessary. Clogged filters will block the flow of air, causing the
system to work harder and may spread dirt throughout your home.
Locate the intake grill- this will be the one without
the open and close lever on it, and remove the cover.
Take notice of the orientation of filters for spray
foam insulation or interior components and replace them correctly
after cleaning.
Wash the grill to remove all dirt and dust that
may have accumulated. The air that is being pulled into this grill
then travels through the ductwork, which may also need to be cleaned.
The ductwork for spray
foam insulation can be cleaned with a long rag or a tube with
a rag attached to it. Tape the rag to a section of hose or tubing
about 5 feet long. Be sure to fasten securely as you do not want
to lose the hose in the ducts. You will also need your vacuum and
possibly a dust mask. Once you have swept the inside of the ducts
with the rag, shake it out and vacuum up the dirt. When complete,
replace the intake grill.
Electronic filters should be checked monthly and
cleaned as needed. Read and follow manufacturers' instructions carefully.
Examine inexpensive fiberglass filters once a month during the heating
and cooling seasons. Pleated filters can last up to three months
but must be replaced after this time. Permanent filters should be
washed and rinsed monthly.
Clean the indoor coil once a year and fan blades
once per year.
A dirty coil will also degrade the performance of
the unit, causing it to work harder, wasting energy and money. You
can clean the coil yourself. Simply remove the panel so that you
can see the coil. Make sure that the coil is dry and clean it off
with a cloth or the brush attachment on your vacuum cleaner. Take
a look at the coil fins, checking to ensure that they are straight.
A fin comb, found at a refrigeration supply store, can be used to
straighten the fins if needed.
While you have the unit off and the panel open,
you can also take care of cleaning the fan blades. Remove the air
filter to access the fan enclosure area. Clean the blades in the
same manner as the coil. Replace the filter and panel cover.
Clear the drain lines once per year.
You will need to consult a trained technician for
this to be completed. The technician will use a high pressure vacuum
to clear the drain.
Programmable Thermostat
Programmable thermostats offer savings, comfort
and convenience. A programmable thermostat costs $85-$125 and can
save $100-$300/household/year on heating and cooling costs and make
your home more comfortable. You can set a program for your thermostat
to follow, so you don't have to think about adjusting the temperature
manually.
Most programmable thermostats are able to store
and repeat multiple daily settings, several temperature settings
per day and automatically adjust heating or air conditioning accordingly
as the outside temperature changes. You can set your thermostat
program to turn the heater (or air conditioner) on just before you
are scheduled to get home so the temperature will already be comfortable
when you arrive.
Information on the types of programmable thermostats
and their benefits can be found on the Department of Energy's site.
For even greater savings, check for rebates on the ENERGY STAR site
and through your state energy office.
Installation Tips
Place thermostats away from direct sunlight, drafts,
doorways, skylights, and windows. Also make sure your thermostat
is conveniently located for programming.
Once the thermostat is installed you should keep
the programming and operating directions, receipts, warranty (typically
1 year), and the manufacturer's contact information.
Heat & Cool Efficiently
As much as half of the energy used in your home goes
to heating and cooling. So making smart decisions about your home's
heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system can have
a big effect on your utility bills — and your comfort. Take these
steps to increase the efficiency of your heating and cooling system.
For more information, see our Guide to Energy Efficient Heating
& Cooling (708KB).
Change your air filter regularly
Check your filter every month, especially during
heavy use months (winter and summer). If the filter looks dirty
after a month, change it. At a minimum, change the filter every
3 months. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and make the system
work harder to keep you warm or cool — wasting energy. A clean filter
will also prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system —
leading to expensive maintenance and/or early system failure.
Tune up your HVAC equipment yearly
Just as a tune-up for your car can improve your
gas mileage, a yearly tune-up of your heating and cooling system
can improve efficiency and comfort.
Install a programmable thermostat
A programmable thermostat is ideal for people who
are away from home during set periods of time throughout the week.
Through proper use of pre-programmed settings, a programmable thermostat
can save you about $100 every year in energy costs.
Seal your heating and cooling ducts before installing
spray foam insulation
Ducts that move air to-and-from a forced air furnace,
central air conditioner, or heat pump are often big energy wasters.
Sealing and insulating ducts can improve the efficiency of your
heating and cooling system by as much as 20 percent — and sometimes
much more.
Focus first on sealing ducts that run through the
attic, crawlspace, unheated basement, or garage. Use duct sealant
(mastic) or metal-backed (foil) tape to seal the seams and connections
of ducts. After sealing the ducts in those spaces, wrap the ducts
in insulation to keep them from getting hot in the summer or cold
in the winter. Next, seal ducts that you can access in the heated
or cooled part of the house.
Consider installing ENERGY STAR qualified heating and
cooling equipment
If your HVAC equipment is more than 10 years old
or not keeping your house comfortable, you should have it looked
at by a professional HVAC contractor. If it is not performing efficiently
or needs upgrading, consider replacing it with a unit that has earned
the ENERGY STAR.
Installed correctly, these high-efficiency heating
and cooling units can save up to 20 percent on heating and cooling
costs. But before you invest in a new HVAC system, make sure that
you have addressed the big air leaks in your house and the duct
system. Sometimes, these are the real sources of problems rather
than your HVAC equipment.
Remember that getting the proper size and a quality
installation is essential to getting the most from your new equipment.
When replacing HVAC equipment, bigger doesn't always mean better.
If the unit is too large for your home, you will be less comfortable
and might actually have higher utility bills.
Oversized equipment will operate in short run cycles,
not allowing the unit to reach efficient operation and remove humidity
from the air — resulting in an uncomfortable home. Your contractor
should determine the right size for your HVAC equipment by using
ACCA/ANSI Manual J or an equivalent sizing calculation tool that
takes into account specific information about your home.
All About Spray Foam Insulation (FAQ's)
The best protection for your home.
Spray-in-place polyurethane foam insulation represents
a major innovation in energy efficiency and home construction quality.
Spray foam insulation has enjoyed a long and successful track record
in residential home construction. In fact, NCFI spray foam insulation
has been contributing to home comfort since the 1960's.
When can spray foam be installed?
Spray foam insulation is professionally installed
at the same point in the construction cycle as other types of insulation.
That is, it should be installed after the rough plumbing, electrical
wiring, and heating and air conditioning ducts have been installed,
but before the interior walls are completed in new home construction.
In some cases spray foam also can be applied in older homes, to
the inside of roofs and under floors after construction has been
completed.
How does spray foam work?
A two-part mixture is applied by trained professionals
to the inside surface of exterior walls, to the underside of the
roof, and beneath floors in basements and crawl spaces. The spray
mixture expands rapidly to fill all cracks and voids, completely
and permanently adhering to wood, masonry, metal studs and joists.
What types of spray foam products are available?
There are two basic types: closed-cell, rigid spray
foam (like our InsulStar® product), and “soft” or semi-flexible
open-cell spray foams (like our Sealite™ product). See the article
Learning the Difference between 1/2-lb and 2-lb Spray Polyurethane
Foam for more information.
Which is better, closed or open cell?
Both systems offer significant advantages over fiberglass
batting: ability to air seal; ability to fill cracks and conform
to odd shaped cavities; and ability to hold their shape over time
and under adverse conditions. But only closed-cell foam has the
thermal insulation value (R-value) to bring your home up to Energy
Star® standards with only one-half the thickness required for fiber
insulations.
In addition, closed-cell foam products increases
the strength of you wall system (it's approximately doubled) and
increase the water resistance of your home's exterior.
How does closed-cell spray foam provide moisture
protection, yet still breathe?
Unlike cellulose and fiberglass materials, closed-cell
foam is impervious to water absorption and wicking. Yet, like Gortex®
fabric, the closed-cell structure allows the passage of water vapor
(high energy particles) to allow your home envelope to “breathe”.
Liquid water has much larger particles and is unable to pass into
or through a closed-cell foam barrier.
What innovative energy saving techniques does
spray polyurethane foam allow?
Several.
1. You won’t need house wrap with NCFI spray insulation.
The air and moisture sealing effects of the spray polyurethane foam
insulation are far superior
to what house wraps can do. Don’t waste your money on house wrap
if you are insulating with spray polyurethane foam.
2. You can encapsulate your entire exterior house
shell with spray polyurethane. In effect, this creates conditioned
space everywhere–including attics, basements, and crawl spaces.
When ductwork is run through these areas, it is kept within conditioned
space, substantially increasing the energy efficiency of your home.
This reduces energy loss from recessed lights and drop ceilings
while minimizing any chance of frozen pipes in colder climates.
3. Spray polyurethane insulation will conform to
any size or shape cavity. Bay windows, oval windows, angled walls,
sloped ceilings, or any other unusual framing designs can be well
insulated and tightly sealed the same as the uniform spaced stud
walls.
CAUTION: Do not try these insulation techniques
with conventional glass fiber batts or blown-in cellulose.
What’s a "thermal barrier" and when is it needed?
A thermal barrier is a covering on the surface of
the spray polyurethane foam insulation which will protect it for
at least 15 minutes in the event of a fire. ½-inch gypsum wall board,
such as Sheetrock®, is an approved 15 minute thermal barrier.
Building codes require the installation of a thermal
barrier between foam plastics (such as spray polyurethane foam insulation)
and any occupied space. Exceptions apply in some cases; review local
codes and/or confer with your local building code officials.
The building code provides for an exception to the
thermal barrier requirement in attics and crawl spaces where entry
is made only for the service of utilities. In such cases, the spray
polyurethane foam insulation must be protected from ignition. NCFI
offers Aldocoat 757, a spray-on ignition barrier coating for these
areas.
How does the NCFI spray polyurethane foam insulation
seal my house?
NCFI spray polyurethane foam insulation is sprayed
on as a liquid which reacts and expands in place. This expansion
action also seals all of the cracks and crevasses in your wall’s
exterior sheathing. The result is that air can no longer slip in:
your house will be less drafty and more comfortable.
Air leakage can also introduce moisture into the
wall cavity, resulting in wet insulation and mold and mildew. With
the sealing effects of NCFI spray polyurethane insulation, this
will not be a concern.
Won’t sealing my house lead to indoor air quality
problems?
Your house does need to be ventilated. Most house
design professionals will advise you to seal the house structure
as tight as possible and provide the necessary ventilation through
the heating and air conditioning system.
Many systems employ an "air exchanger" which is designed
to pre-condition (either warm or cool) the incoming outside air
with the outgoing exhaust air. In this manner, you can build an
extremely energy efficient exterior shell using spray polyurethane
foam while still providing controlled and energy efficient ventilation.
Is spray polyurethane foam insulation code approved?
Yes. Building codes provide for the use of spray
polyurethane foam insulation in the Foam Plastic section. This section
of the code also describes the use of thermal barriers.
At what point in the construction of my house should
spray polyurethane foam insulation be applied?
Normally spray polyurethane foam insulation is installed
at the same point in the construction cycle as other types of insulation.
That is, it should be installed after the rough plumbing, electrical
wiring, and heating and air conditioning ducts have been installed.
If you decide to seal the entire exterior house shell with spray
polyurethane foam, spray insulation may need to be applied in some
areas before the ductwork is installed.
Can I use NCFI spray polyurethane foam to insulate
an existing home?
Spray polyurethane insulation is used primarily
to insulate new homes. This is because spray polyurethane foam must
be applied to an open cavity. When spray polyurethane is injected
into a closed wall cavity, the pressure of the expanding insulation
may damage the wall.
Consider insulating an existing home with spray
polyurethane foam when you’re replacing the exterior siding or doing
other major remodeling.
How does spray polyurethane foam insulation compare
with glass fiber batts and blown-in cellulose?
1. Glass fiber batts will not stop air leakage (it
might filter out some dirt and dust). Blown-in cellulose will slow
down air leakage. Spray polyurethane insulation will stop air leakage
. . . dead.
2. Glass fiber batts have an R-value of about 3.5
(1-inch thickness). Blown-in cellulose has an R-value of about 3
to 4 (1-inch thickness). Spray applied
polyurethane insulation has an R-value of 6.5
to 7 (1-inch thickness).
3. Glass fiber batts can sag over time; blown-in
cellulose can settle over time: both situations leave sections uninsulated
and you’ll feel colder because of it. Spray polyurethane insulation
completely adheres to wood and sheathing and is rigid; the result
is a permanent barrier to heat loss and air entry.
4. Spray polyurethane insulation
will add strength and rigidity to your house. Glass fiber
batts and blown-in cellulose will not.
Will I save money if I insulate with NCFI spray
polyurethane foam insulation?
Yes! The installed cost of spray polyurethane foam
is somewhat higher than glass fiber batts or blown-in cellulose.
However, the higher initial cost is partially offset because you
can leave off the house wrap and your heating and air conditioning
equipment can be smaller.
You will
save in your heating fuel and electric bills. Studies suggest
that homes insulated with spray polyurethane foam use 20 to 40 %
less energy than homes insulated with conventional insulation. Your
savings may be greater or less depending on your life style, appliances,
house site, number and size of windows, etc. One home owner from
Colorado Springs reported the following to us:
"We live at 8,000 feet above sea level and have
been through some severely cold winters. In our old house, which
was 2,600 square feet and insulated with 3 ½-inch batts, our winter
gas heating bill was about $130 per month. Our new house has 6,000
square feet of living area and 3 inches of spray foam in the walls.
Our highest monthly winter gas bill has been $80. One of the main
differences was the lack of drafts in our new home."
Will spray polyurethane foam insulation lose
R-value over time?
When first installed, spray polyurethane foam foam’s
R-value is about 10 for a one-inch thickness. Over time, the R-value
drops to between 6.5 and 7.0 (one inch) and stabilizes at that value.
The time it takes to reach an R-value of 6.5 to 7.0 depends on a
variety of factors, including total foam thickness. We report a
six-month aged R-value. Many industry studies indicate that a one-inch
thick sample of foam will stabilize after six months and maintain
that approximate R-value for decades.
Can spray polyurethane foam insulation be applied
directly to electrical wiring? What about installed electrical devices
like recessed lights?
Spray polyurethane can be applied directly to electrical
wiring. Recessed lights or other fixtures may require a certain
amount of air circulation around them for cooling purposes. In these
cases, a box can be build around the fixture with gypsum wall board;
then spray foam can be sprayed directly to the outside of the box.
Will spray polyurethane foam insulation deteriorate
over time?
Not that we’re aware of. We’ve looked at 20-year
old spray foam projects and we have not observed any signs of deterioration.
We expect the NCFI spray polyurethane insulation system to insulate
and seal your home for the life of the house.
How long has spray polyurethane foam been used
to insulate houses?
Spray polyurethane foam was commercially developed
in the United States in the mid-1960's. Homes have been insulated
with spray foam since that time.
What smells does spray polyurethane foam insulation
produce in my home?
A slight odor will be present during installation
of spray polyurethane foam insulation. This will rapidly dissipate
after the spraying operation stops. After that, the installed spray
polyurethane foam insulation will be odorless.
Will spray polyurethane foam insulation absorb
or entrap moisture?
Most moisture problems in houses are due to moisture
entry from air leakage. Because spray polyurethane foam insulation
provides such an excellent air barrier, this source of moisture
is virtually eliminated. Other potential sources of moisture can
be excluded with proper construction techniques and materials. Unusual
building use (such as freezers or swimming pool buildings) may require
a vapor retarder. Contact NCFI regarding your specific situation
if you have any questions.
Does spray polyurethane foam contain formaldehyde?
No.
What equipment do I need to apply spray polyurethane
foam insulation?
Required equipment elements include a plural component
proportioner pump with heaters, dual high pressure heated hoses,
high pressure mixing and spray gun, and feed pumps and hoses. In
addition, an air compressor and electrical generator may be needed.
Can a homeowner apply spray polyurethane foam insulation?
Not practically. Spray polyurethane application
requires complex equipment and a skilled installer.
Will spray polyurethane foam insulation strengthen
my house?
Yes! NCFI InsulStar® foam is rigid and structural.
Your walls will be more resistant to winds and you’ll notice less
creaking and shaking when doors are slammed or when the kids are
romping about. See our web page on Wall Strength for more information.
How long does it take to install spray polyurethane
foam insulation?
Quite quickly. A typical house can be fully insulated
with spray polyurethane foam in a day or less. Large houses or houses
with complex design features could take longer.
NOTE: Spray rigs for commercial and residential foam insulation have the best spray foam equipment for foam insulation contractors. Spray on insulation is usually urethane foam insulation. Expanding foam insulation, closed cell foam insulation is used by insulation contractors for foam wall and pipe insulation. Remember, urethane foam and polyurethane insulation are good for wall insulation. FULL PROFITABILITY WILL RISE WITH THE
PROPER EQUIPMENT! CAN BE SENT AT DISCOUNT PRICES. YOU CAN
BUY NOW OR RENT. EQUIPMENT IS ON SALE WITH A PRICE COST OF
LOW DOLLARS AND CENTS. REFUND IS OFTEN IN CASH IF NOT SATISFIED.
IF YOU DECIDE TO BUILD YOUR OWN (DIY) YOU CAN OFTEN UTILIZE
LEFTOVERS FROM FACTORY SECONDS, SURPLUS , DISCONTINUED MERCHANDISE,
GARAGE CLEAN OUTS, WAREHOUSE CLEANOUT, RETAIL CLOSEOUTS, ITEMS
FROM FACTORY REJECTS, OUT OF BUSINESS SALES & FACTORY
CLEAN OUTS. FINALLY, DON'T OVERLOOK CLOSEOUTS! WHEN BUYING
ONLINE, PAYPAL, MASTERCARD, DISCOVER, AMERICAN EXPRESS, AND
VISA ARE ALMOST ALWAYS ACCEPTED. RENTALS OF FIRST AND SECOND
QUALITY ARE POSSIBLE. SPECIAL PRICES ALWAYS APPEAR AT CLOSEOUT
AND DISTRESSED SALES. WE DO NOT BROKER OR BUY THESE ITEMS
FOR RESALE. ORDINARILY, THE SALE PRICE IS FINAL FOR USED EQUIPMENT,
REPOSSESSIONS, JUNK, INSURANCE SALVAGE OR FREIGHT SALVAGE.
DISTRESSED MERCHANDISE CAN BE A GOOD SOURCE OF GENERAL SUPPLY
FOR INDUSTRIAL MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS. AGAIN, BUY NOW, BUY
NOW, BUY NOW. THE SALE PRICE MAY NEVER BE LOWER. SAVE $ $
$ $ $ $ $ $ $ $.
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