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The thermal barrier is flowed or sprayed onto the foamed polymeric material, optionally, with an adhesive interlayer or "tie-coat" therebetween, to form a fire resistant laminate which laminate meets the "15-minute finish rating" or "hourly rated" requirement of building codes as determined by a testing procedure currently designated. Claims About Spray Foam Insulation
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What is Spray Foam Insulation?
Spray Foam, Spray Insulation, Expanding Foam and Foam sealant are common terms for insulation, which is sprayed into place unlike traditional sheets or rolls of insulation, which must be cut and fixed into place.
It is produced from two liquid components that, when combined and sprayed, produce an expanding foam froth. This expanding foam froth then hardens within 3-5 minutes to form a rigid foam with excellent insulating properties. Sprayed foam insulation is now available in do-it-yourself (DIY) kits.
Visit our Spray Foam Video Page for video clips of spray foam insulation in action!
Typical applications for Spray on Foam Insulation include:
DIY roof, loft and attic insulation. Insulating foam sprayed onto the underside of roof tiles not only insulates, but fixes the tiles in place and prevents slippage - perfect for roofs which are past their prime.
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NOTE: Spray rigs for commercial and residential foam insulation have the best spray foam equipment for foam insulation contractors. Spray on insulation is usually urethane foam insulation. Expanding foam insulation, closed cell foam insulation is used by insulation contractors for foam wall and pipe insulation. Remember, urethane foam and polyurethane insulation are good for wall insulation. FULL PROFITABILITY WILL RISE WITH THE PROPER EQUIPMENT! CAN BE SENT AT DISCOUNT PRICES. YOU CAN BUY NOW OR RENT. EQUIPMENT IS ON SALE WITH A PRICE COST OF LOW DOLLARS AND CENTS. REFUND IS OFTEN IN CASH IF NOT SATISFIED. IF YOU DECIDE TO BUILD YOUR OWN (DIY) YOU CAN OFTEN UTILIZE LEFTOVERS FROM FACTORY SECONDS, SURPLUS , DISCONTINUED MERCHANDISE, GARAGE CLEAN OUTS, WAREHOUSE CLEANOUT, RETAIL CLOSEOUTS, ITEMS FROM FACTORY REJECTS, OUT OF BUSINESS SALES & FACTORY CLEAN OUTS. FINALLY, DON'T OVERLOOK CLOSEOUTS! WHEN BUYING ONLINE, PAYPAL, MASTERCARD, DISCOVER, AMERICAN EXPRESS, AND VISA ARE ALMOST ALWAYS ACCEPTED. RENTALS OF FIRST AND SECOND QUALITY ARE POSSIBLE. SPECIAL PRICES ALWAYS APPEAR AT CLOSEOUT AND DISTRESSED SALES. WE DO NOT BROKER OR BUY THESE ITEMS FOR RESALE. ORDINARILY, THE SALE PRICE IS FINAL FOR USED EQUIPMENT, REPOSSESSIONS, JUNK, INSURANCE SALVAGE OR FREIGHT SALVAGE. DISTRESSED MERCHANDISE CAN BE A GOOD SOURCE OF GENERAL SUPPLY FOR INDUSTRIAL MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS. AGAIN, BUY NOW, BUY NOW, BUY NOW. THE SALE PRICE MAY NEVER BE LOWER. SAVE $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $. |
Spray on Foam Insulation for Barn conversions and renovation. The foam can be sprayed between beams and joists, which greatly reduces the time to do the job when compared to traditional insulating methods.
Insulating Narrowboats, canal boats & Barges - preventing condensation and improving your comfort.
Insulation of Dormer window and Bay window roofs - preventing heat loss and condensation in architectural features.
Cellar or basement insulation - The cured foam can be plastered or sanded and painted.
Spa bath and Jacuzzi Insulation to reduce heat loss and save energy.
Summerhouse Insulation - beat the heat in summer.
What are the Advantages of Spray Foam?
The properties of Handi-Foam Spray Foam Insulation make it versatile for many uses:
The sprayed foam sticks to most surfaces including metal, wood, bricks, concrete and tiles, making it easy and quick to apply.
The closed cell structure of two Component Polyurethane Foam makes it ideal for buoyancy or flotation applications
The kits produce an expanding polyurethane foam which expands at a ratio of 8:1 which makes it perfect for void filling and sealing out cold drafts.
The Quick Cure nature of the Spray Foam means it can be sprayed onto walls and roofs (just like paint) and it won't drip or sag.
The Slow Rise version of foam can be injected into a cavity or moulds where the expanding foam and fills the void before curing.
Closed-cell polyurethane foam insulation has been proven in commercial and residential buildings for more than 30 years. In liquid spray form, it fills in cavities between wall studs, window and door frames, surface irregularities and gaps around plumbing, wiring and HVAC components. The foam surrounds the structure in a lightweight blanket of insulation that creates a controlled comfort zone inside the home and contributes to its overall structural integrity.
Here are some of the benefits of spray foam insulation made with RUBINATE® Products
waste energy. Unsealed spaces around windows and doors, for example, are among the most recognized culprits. But hidden air movement behind walls, under baseboards, around joists, plumbing and electrical connections can also cause energy bills to skyrocket. Air movement through the shell of a home disrupts its interior temperature, air pressure and humidity levels, causing heat to move out of the house in winter, and into the home in summer and, in turn, causing HVAC systems to work even harder to maintain comfort levels.
If these "invisible" gaps aren't found and sealed before the house is finished, it will waste energy the rest of its life. Spray foam insulation with RUBINATE® Products provides the solution
There is no better home insulating material that can seal your home from air and moisture intrusion, save on costly utility bills, strengthen your home, and protect your family’s health from dangerous mold than Spray Foam insulation.
Benefits of Spray Foam Insulation
Often times no expensive building wrap or additional vapor protection is required during construction when using SPF, saving money yet again.
High R-Value
Sprayed polyurethane foam has an aged R-value of approximately 6.0 per 1 inch thickness (depending on the particular formulation and application, higher values have been achieved), enabling it to provide more thermal resistance with less material than any other type of commercial insulation material. SPF systems are frequently used to insulate and protect a wide variety of residential, commercial, and industrial buildings.
Monthly energy and utility savings of 30% or greater can be achieved when compared to the alternative roofing and insulation systems. The cost of an SPF roof or insulation system can often be recovered in less than 5 years, simply through energy savings alone.
Prevents Air, Moisture and Gas Infiltration
Studies have shown that as much as 40% of a building’s total energy loss is due to air infiltration. Traditional fiberglass insulation is only stapled, or placed into the wall cavities and does not seal the stud and wall cavities from end to end, or top to bottom. Air infiltration can pass through these gaps, making it far less efficient than SPF. SPF not only adheres to, but forms to the walls and floors to create a tight seal and insulating barrier that stops this air leakage. SPF also boasts the highest R-value per inch than any other commercial material, (upwards of R-7.0, compared with Fiberglass at R-3.5) making your home more comfortable and less expensive to heat in the winter, and cool in the summer.
Since SPF acts as an air barrier, it also helps to reduce moisture infiltration, which is a source of dangerous mold and mildew growth in the home, and can cause severe health problems to its occupants. So save your family and save money at the same time with SPF home insulation systems. Moisture infiltration can also cause structural damage to your home or building.
Helps Reduce Moisture and Mold
Molds produce tiny spores to reproduce. Mold spores waft through the indoor and outdoor air continually. When mold spores land on a damp spot indoors, they may begin growing and digesting whatever they are growing on in order to survive. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods. When excessive moisture or water accumulates indoors, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or un-addressed. There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture. SPF insulation is the key. Watch Video...
Enhances Overall Building Stability
Since SPF is seamless and monolithic, foam sprayed into the walls enhances overall building stability and reduces “rack and sheer.” More...
Types of Insulation
There are four basic types of insulation: loose fill, batts and blankets, rigid board and spray foam. The most appropriate type of insulation to use will vary based on the type of construction, the extent of the rehabilitation planned and applicable code requirements.
Loose-fill Insulation
Loose-fill insulation includes loose fibers or fiber pellets that are blown into building cavities or attics using special equipment. It generally costs more than batt insulation. However, it usually fills nooks and crannies easier, reduces air leakage better, and provides better sound insulation than natt-type insulation.
Cellulose fiber, made from recycled newspapers, is chemically treated for fire and moisture resistance. (Check that the bags are clearly labeled to indicate that the material meets federal specifications for fire resistance). It can be installed in walls, floors or attics using a dry-pack process or a moist-spray technique.
Fiberglass and rock wool loose-fill insulation provide full coverage with a "Blow-in Blanket" System (BIBS) that involves blowing insulation into open stud cavities behind a net.
Loose-fill insulation typically has a value of approximately R-3 to R-4 per inch. Cellulose fiber has approximately 30% more insulating value than loose-fill rock wool for the same number of inches installed.
More information about loose-fill insulation is available from the Department of Energy.
Batt and Blanket Insulation
Batt and blanket insulation is made of mineral fiber -- either processed fiberglass or rock wool -- and is used to insulate below floors, above ceilings, and within walls. Generally, batt insulation is the least expensive wall insulation material but requires careful installation for effective performance.
This type of insulation is best suited to a standard joist, rafter, or stud spacing of 16 or 24 inches. Batts and blankets come in widths to fit securely between the wood-framing members. Some come with a radiant barrier backing. Batts generally come in lengths of 4 or 8 feet. Blankets come in long rolls that are cut to the desired length for installation. Both batts and blankets typically have an R-value of approximately R-3 per inch of thickness.
Rigid Board Insulation
Rigid board insulation is commonly made from fiberglass, polystyrene, or polyurethane and comes in a variety of thicknesses with a high insulating value (approximately R-4 to R-8 per inch). This type of insulation is used for reproofing work on flat roofs, on basement walls and as perimeter insulation at concrete slab edges, and in cathedral ceilings.
For interior applications it must be covered with 1/2-inch gypsum board or other building-code approved material for fire safety. For exterior applications it must be covered with weather-proof facing. Check the applicable codes to determine local requirements for covering rigid board insulation to achieve fire resistance.
Spray Foam Insulation
Spray foam insulation is a two-part liquid containing a polymer (such as polyurethane or modified urethane) and a foaming agent. The liquid is sprayed through a nozzle into wall, ceiling, and floor cavities. As it is applied it expands into a solid cellular plastic with millions of tiny air-filled cells that fill every nook and cranny. Spray foam insulation should be applied by a professional using special equipment to meter, mix, and spray into place. Spray foam insulation is commonly used for retrofits; it is good for irregularly shaped areas and around obstructions
Spray foam materials cost more than traditional batt insulation. However, since spray foam forms both an insulation and an air barrier, it can be cost competitive with batt insulation because it eliminates the steps for air-tightness detailing (such as caulking, Insulation Basics
Insulation is one of the most effective ways to save energy. Heating and cooling costs comprise more than 50% of the energy consumed in a single family home. Adding the recommended levels of insulation will save energy, reduce utility costs and improve comfort. Proper installation is critical; gaps and compressed areas will dramatically reduce effectiveness.
Insulation provides additional benefits including noise reduction, fire resistance and safety. Factors that affect the performance of insulation, and should be considered when choosing the appropriate type for the job, are insulating capacity, fire resistance, moisture control, convective heat loss, settling and loss of insulating capacity.
Before You Insulate With Spray Foam Insulation
Conduct thorough air sealing. Adding insulation may make some air leaks difficult to access. The insulation itself typically will not stop these leaks. Air flowing through the insulation will waste energy. Moist air can damage the insulation and reduce its effectiveness.
Control moisture. Rain can penetrate through improper flashing and leaks around doors, windows, chimneys and poorly-installed siding. Fix these problems and install a vapor retarder. Remove any existing insulation that has gotten wet.
Check your building code to determine if you need to add ventilation (in attics and crawlspaces). Ensure that insulation will not block existing vents.
Inspect the area for any exposed wiring. Be sure it is in good condition and will not present a fire hazard.
Recessed light fixtures can be a major source of heat loss, but you need to be careful how close you place insulation next to a fixture unless it is marked "I.C."-designed for direct insulation contact. Check your local building codes for recommendations.
Where to Insulate With Spray Foam Insulation
Walls, ceilings, attics, floors and ducts should be well-insulated. Insulation is rated according to its R-Value, or its ability to resist heat flow, with a high R-Value being a greater resistance. A guide to help you determine the recommended levels of insulation in each part of your home is available through the U.S. Department of Energy.
Ceilings: Attics are easy to access in single family homes and low multifamily buildings with pitched roofs. Multi-family buildings with flat roofs should be insulated when roof replacement or repair work is needed.
Exterior Walls: Wall insulation is often difficult to upgrade unless the interior walls (drywall or other wallboard) or the exterior siding are being replaced in the rehabilitation project. Existing uninsulated frame walls can often have their cavities filled with blown-in cellulose insulation in a cost-effective manner. If the outside siding is being replaced, it is often cost effective to apply rigid foam insulation on the outside of the framing before the siding is installed.
Floors: Floors are usually easy to access. If the basement or space underneath the floor is not conditioned (like a garage), uninsulated floors can be a significant source of heat loss from the living space.
Basements: If the basement space is conditioned and the climate is cold, uninsulated basement walls will be a significant source of heat loss. Basement insulation systems must be carefully considered because of the inherent moisture problems and the resulting mold problems that may be exacerbated by inappropriately insulating a basement. Furring out and insulating the inside of the wall is often possible and cost-effective. Generally, if below-grade walls "sweat" or if moisture is a problem at these walls, only insulate the above-grade portion of the walls.
Crawl Spaces: The perimeter walls of enclosed crawl spaces should be insulated in cold climates. For ventilated crawl spaces, the floor above should be insulated.
Duct Sealing and Insulation
A heating or cooling system can only be as good as the ducts that carry the conditioned air through your home. Ducts are typically made of sheet metal, fiberglass, or other materials. They can lose energy in two ways, by conduction of heat through the material and by air leaking through cracks and seams.
Locating and Sealing Leaks
Not sure how to tell if your ducts need some improving? You may want to call an energy professional to locate leaks and pressure imbalances. A professional will use diagnostics tools, such as a blower door, duct blaster, and digital manometer to identify leaks and imbalances. You can conduct a visual check of your ducts to look for holes or separated joints; however, ducts are often "hidden" under floors or in walls, which limits the effectiveness of visual inspections.
Seal duct leaks with fiberglass mesh and mastic, mechanical fasteners, or foil tape, but do not use duct tape.
When to Insulate
Lack of proper insulation is a common and costly problem. Without insulation, ducts will leak heated air into spaces intended to be unheated, such as crawl spaces. If you find that your ducts are uninsulated or leaking air, it is time to repair these problems.
Ducts that run through unconditioned spaces, like crawlspaces or basements, should be insulated. If you are unsure of whether or not to insulate, simply place your hand on the duct material. If it feels warm (or cool if distributing cool air), you need insulation. Insulate your ducts to R-6.
If you are insulating heating ducts in an unconditioned space, insulate any water pipes as well. If there are uninsulated ducts and pipes in the same area, the heat escaping from the ducts may be helping to keep the pipes from freezing. For this reason, the water pipes could freeze and burst if they remain uninsulated. Cooling ducts will also require a well sealed vapor barrier on the outside of the insulation to prevent moisture buildup.
You may need to call in a qualified professional to perform these improvements. If you are installing a new duct system entirely, refer to the Design and Construction of Interior Duct System [.pdf] provided by DOE's Building America program. It is strongy advised to call in a qualified professional as this is a large job.
Air Sealing
Air infiltration may contribute to as much as 30% of your building's heating and cooling costs. Infiltration wastes energy and money, and contributes to moisture, noise and dust problems. These openings may also serve as an entry way for unwanted pests.
Finding Leaks
Areas that may have significant leaks are near the attic, crawlspace, or basement, and around windows, doors, and chimneys. Plumbing chases, electrical outlets, attic accesses, and dropped ceilings are other likely suspects. Leaky ducts are also a big source of loss. Your heating system may be working hard to heat and distribute air that never reaches its intended destination.
You will be able to detect large cracks and gaps in the walls by the resulting drafts. You can hold an incense stick near suspect areas and watch the smoke for telltale drafts. However, you may need to hire a contractor to run tests to determine the location of smaller air leaks. An energy professional will use diagnostic tools such as a blower door to locate air leaks and pressure imbalances.
Fixing Leaks
Holes in the envelope of the house should be repaired from largest to smallest.
Air sealing should be performed before insulation is added as gaps and cracks in the wall will allow air passage, decreasing the effectiveness of the insulation.
Air sealing should be performed in conjunction with an assessment of the building's ventilation system to ensure adequate indoor air quality. This is especially important when combustion appliances, such as gas-fired water heaters, are present. Without proper ventilation these appliances can backdraft and draw exhaust gases, including carbon monoxide, into the living space. This can pose a potential health hazard.
Materials
There are several materials that may be used for air sealing, depending on the purpose.
Backer rod - Closed-cell foam or rope caulk. Press into crack or gap with screwdriver or putty knife. Often used with caulk around window and door rough openings.
Caulk- For sealing gaps of less than ½ inch.
Spray Foam- To fill large cracks and small holes. A few precautions should be heeded when using spray foam: do not use near flammable applications and do not use expanding foams around windows and doors.
Weatherstripping - To seal areas with moveable components such as doors and windows.
For larger areas:
Housewrap - To form an airtight seal over the exterior sheathing, housewrap must be sealed with tape or caulk. Does not provide a vapor barrier.
Polyethylene Plastic - To serve as a vapor and air barrier. This material may be used for sealing complicated leakage areas that may be of irregular shape.
Asbestos As a Hazard During Remodeling
Asbestos was used in thermal insulation and floor tiles prior to 1980. Intact and undisturbed asbestos does not pose a health risk. Asbestos becomes a problem when, due to damage, disturbance, or deterioration over time, the material releases fibers into the air. Therefore, during remodeling and renovation activities, asbestos exposure can become a problem.
What is asbestos?
Asbestos refers to a mineral fiber, with the term describing six naturally occurring minerals found in rock formations. The compound consists of silicon, oxygen, hydrogen, and various metal components. These mineral fibers are very small and light, normally invisible to the naked eye. Their use in insulation is due to the fact that they are heat resistant and extremely durable. The presence of asbestos is not necessarily health threatening. As long as the material is not damaged and it is well sealed, not allowing mineral to escape, there is no associated health risk. When the material can be crushed or reduced to powder by hand pressure, allowing pieces to escape, a health risk may be imposed.
Why was it used?
In the past, asbestos was added to a variety of products to strengthen them and to provide heat insulation and fire resistance. Asbestos became popular in commercial buildings until the early 1970s because it is durable, a fire retardant, corrosion resistant and a good insulator. It is estimated that there are 3,000 different types of commercial products containing some amount of asbestos.
What are the associated health effects?
Asbestos fibers can cause serious health problems if inhaled. The tiny fibers can impair normal lung functions, and increase the risk of developing lung cancer, mesothelioma (a cancer of the chest and abdominal linings), or asbestosis (irreversible lung scarring that can be fatal). Symptoms do not surface immediately but the long term risks include chest and abdominal cancers and lung diseases. Symptoms may not be present anywhere from 20 to 30 years after the first exposure. Severe health problems from exposure have been experienced by workers who held jobs in industries such as shipbuilding, mining, milling, and fabricating.
How do I know if asbestos is in my home? How do I get rid of it?
If you suspect a material in your home contains asbestos, treat it as if it does until you can get it tested. The only way to be sure whether or not you have asbestos in your home is to have the material tested in a laboratory. Look in your local directory under Asbestos or Laboratories for specialists that are able to perform these tests.
Typical places you may find asbestos in your home include, but are not limited to, the following:
Insulation Roofing and siding shingles
Textures paint or patching compounds on wall and ceiling joints
Stove top pads
Vinyl floor tiles
Blanket or insulating tape around hot water and steam pipes in older houses
Insulation on oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets
Soundproofing or decorative material sprayed on walls and ceilings
Remember, asbestos that is kept intact and properly sealed will not pose a danger. If it is in good condition, leave it alone. If the material is damaged at all, do not touch or move the material yourself. Call a professional to perform this work. Before you remodel your home, find out whether or not asbestos is present in your home.
Vapor Barriers or Vapor Retarders
A vapor retarder is a specially treated paper, thin plastic sheeting, or low permeance paint that prevents condensation of water vapor inside wall or ceiling materials. This trapped moisture can cause damage to the wallboard and paint as well as structural deterioration.
The vapor retarder must have a vapor permeance (the rate that moisture can pass through materials) of not more than 1.0 perm (tested in accordance with ASTM Standard E96-80).
The term "vapor barrier", which is also commonly used, is somewhat misleading since it does not completely bar the transmission of water vapor. A vapor barrier is actually a vapor-resistant membrane, and is more properly called a "vapor retarder."
Location of Vapor Retarder
Interior moisture tries to move out of a building. Vapor retarders are important, because they keep this moisture in a warm area where it will not condense. For this reason, vapor retarders should be applied (in colder climates) behind the drywall of a wall or ceiling next to existing insulation and on the warm-in-winter side (between the insulation and the conditioned space) of insulated floor sections over crawl spaces.
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NOTE: Spray rigs for commercial and residential foam insulation have the best spray foam equipment for foam insulation contractors. Spray on insulation is usually urethane foam insulation. Expanding foam insulation, closed cell foam insulation is used by insulation contractors for foam wall and pipe insulation. Remember, urethane foam and polyurethane insulation are good for wall insulation. FULL PROFITABILITY WILL RISE WITH THE PROPER EQUIPMENT! CAN BE SENT AT DISCOUNT PRICES. YOU CAN BUY NOW OR RENT. EQUIPMENT IS ON SALE WITH A PRICE COST OF LOW DOLLARS AND CENTS. REFUND IS OFTEN IN CASH IF NOT SATISFIED. IF YOU DECIDE TO BUILD YOUR OWN (DIY) YOU CAN OFTEN UTILIZE LEFTOVERS FROM FACTORY SECONDS, SURPLUS , DISCONTINUED MERCHANDISE, GARAGE CLEAN OUTS, WAREHOUSE CLEANOUT, RETAIL CLOSEOUTS, ITEMS FROM FACTORY REJECTS, OUT OF BUSINESS SALES & FACTORY CLEAN OUTS. FINALLY, DON'T OVERLOOK CLOSEOUTS! WHEN BUYING ONLINE, PAYPAL, MASTERCARD, DISCOVER, AMERICAN EXPRESS, AND VISA ARE ALMOST ALWAYS ACCEPTED. RENTALS OF FIRST AND SECOND QUALITY ARE POSSIBLE. SPECIAL PRICES ALWAYS APPEAR AT CLOSEOUT AND DISTRESSED SALES. WE DO NOT BROKER OR BUY THESE ITEMS FOR RESALE. ORDINARILY, THE SALE PRICE IS FINAL FOR USED EQUIPMENT, REPOSSESSIONS, JUNK, INSURANCE SALVAGE OR FREIGHT SALVAGE. DISTRESSED MERCHANDISE CAN BE A GOOD SOURCE OF GENERAL SUPPLY FOR INDUSTRIAL MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS. AGAIN, BUY NOW, BUY NOW, BUY NOW. THE SALE PRICE MAY NEVER BE LOWER. SAVE $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $. |
Caution : Because moisture may be trapped between the two vapor retarders and eventually ruin the installation, if additional insulation is added during your remodeling project, be sure that a second vapor retarder is not applied between layers of insulation. There is a chance that this second vapor retarder might be added inadvertantly during an insulation upgrade because some batt insulation comes with a vapor retarder integrally attached in the form of paper or aluminum-like sheating.
HVAC in Single Family Housing
HVAC refers to the equipment, distribution network, and terminals that provide the heating, ventilating, or air-conditioning processes to a building. Your system may consist of a central unit with ducts that carry conditioned air to the living space, controlled by a programmable thermostat. Or you may have individual units that condition specific rooms, such as a room air conditioner or electric baseboard heat.
During any rehabilitation project, it is very important to assess the condition, reliability and efficiency of the heating system. Poor operation of the heating system will often lead to comfort problems for occupants, higher energy bills, increased maintenance demands and even structural problems from excess moisture.
Effect of Building Envelope
When evaluating the overall efficiency of your HVAC system it is critical to consider related building components, including air sealing, windows and insulation. If your building envelope is leaky, conditioned air will escape and the mechanical equipment will work harder to compensate.
You should conduct any air sealing and insulation measures first before selecting a new HVAC system. You may be able to down-size your HVAC system by tightening the building envelope. This will save money on the initial investment as well as on your monthly energy bills.
Tune-up
Sometimes, existing equipment can be made more efficient by giving the heating and cooling systems a simple cleaning and tune-up. Basic repairs such as replacement of a faulty burner nozzle can result in significant savings.
New Controls
Don't forget to consider upgrading your controls. Programmable thermostats are a cost-effective measure for reducing energy consumption. The thermostat will automatically adjust the temperature during different times of day, to meet the occupants' heating and cooling needs while home, sleeping and away.
Other Considerations
Existing construction features can also have an effect on HVAC system type. Consider a house that has no chimney -- or a chimney in very poor condition. Equipment developed over the last 15 years or so may provide the answer. High-efficiency condensing appliances require only a sidewall vent rather than a chimney.
In the evaluation of existing systems, an experienced contractor may be able to provide helpful advice and guidance. For multifamily buildings, the size and complexities of the installation will typically require the assistance of a professional engineer.
Selecting a New Energy Efficient Heating System
When replacing your heating system, there are several options depending on the type of heating fuel available. When shopping for the right unit for your home, heating efficiencies may be compared according to their AFUE, annual fuel utilization efficiency. The AFUE is a ratio expressing the heat output compared to the energy consumed by the furnace or boiler. A higher AFUE translates into a more efficient appliance.
Points to Consider
When choosing your new heating system consider:
What is the home's heating load?
What is the condition of the existing duct system or piping?
Are the proper insulation levels installed? Has thorough air sealing been conducted?
Installing a system that is oversized (has more capacity than needed) will waste energy. Conduct thorough air sealing and install the proper levels of insulation first. This will reduce the heating load and most likely allow you to downsize your heating system.
You may want to have a professional assess your home and its heating needs and recommend the type and size of system you should purchase. Contact the Air Conditioning Contractors of America for a listing of members in your area.
You can find the most up to date information on the types of heating units available in your area as well as any incentives that may come with them through your State energy office or ENERGY STAR.
Gas or Oil
If your heating fuel is gas or oil, opt for a sealed combustion unit, rather than one that releases the gases right into your home. Sealed combustion appliances are vented to the outside so the fumes from fuel burning are delivered to the outside without entering your home and the unit takes fresh air straight from the outdoors as a supply for the combustion process. This eliminates the risk of dangerous combustion gases entering your home and causing health problems.
Two of the most important factors to keep in mind are size and efficiency.
Types of Gas or Oil Systems
Forced air systems are the typical heating system in today's American homes, the main components being the furnace, ducting to transport the heated air and supply and return grills.
Hot water systems use boiler heated water which gets circulated through radiators, baseboard heaters, radiant floors or fan forced coils. Steam systems are less efficient than forced air or hot water because they require hotter temperatures to produce the steam. They do not require any pumps or forced circulation as the steam moves itself through pipes. It is essential to use good fiberglass insulation around the piping to avoid delivering heat to unfinished areas of the house. A professional HVAC technician can assist you in your decision on what type and sized system is best for your situation.
Gas or oil space heaters should always be vented to the outdoors. Using unvented propane, kerosene or oil space heaters can be very dangerous and is not recommended.
Electric Heating
You can simplify your system by using an electric heat pump. An electric heat pump can serve both heating and cooling needs. This system is best suited for houses in climates of moderate heating and cooling needs.
In the cold season, heat pumps move heat from the cool outdoors into your home and heat from your home to the outdoors in the warm season. Heat pumps use electricity to move heat rather than create heat, providing an energy efficient alternative to furnaces and boilers.
Electric Air Source heat pumps transfer heat between the air outdoors and the air within your home. ENERGY STAR qualified models have a 12 SEER cooling efficiency and a 7.0 HSPF for heating.
A more efficient form of heat pump is the ground source heat pump, which transfers heat between your home and the ground rather than your home and the outdoor air. To learn more about choosing the appropriate heat pump for your home, see the Department of Energy's Building Technologies site.
Post Purchase
After you have purchased your new heating system, you should keep all warranty information, receipts, safety and operation directions, and the contact information of the manufacturer in a central location. Read about maintenance tips.
Selecting a New Air Conditioner
Now that you have decided that you're ready to purchase a new air conditioner, consider the following to help make your decision.
The three important things to keep in mind when looking for a new air conditioner are: correctly sizing the unit, choosing an efficient model, and getting the unit installed properly. Also consider the type of filter required. Reusable filters can be cleaned and reused whereas disposable filters are only used once and then you must purchase a new one. Also, some filters catch smaller particles than other. For example, some newer units have electrostatic filters, which will remove extremely small particles out of the air. Those with allergies or respiratory problems may want to consider these types of filters.
Room Air Conditioners
When purchasing a new room air conditioner unit, there are several options you may want to look for. The unit should have, in the very least, an adjustable thermostat, a minimum of two cooling settings, two fan speeds, an adjustable vent and an exhaust vent setting. You can learn more about air conditioners, how they work and some basic maintenance tips from the DOE's Consumer Energy Information Center.
Central Air Conditioners
When choosing a new central air conditioning system, look for one with a minimum SEER of 12. A SEER of 12 or more is considered high efficiency, the best available currently at 17. ENERGY STAR qualified models are available with a higher SEER and can save you 20% on your cooling bill with its 25-40% greater efficiency than standard ten year old models. The cooling system will include both the outdoor condensing unit and the indoor air handler. A contractor can help you in choosing the right system for your home.
Be sure you purchase your new air conditioning system from an authorized dealer or some manufacturers will not honor warrantees and rebates. Your salesperson should be able to tell you what the warranty is on your unit. Consider parts as well as labor. Labor costs can be very high for replacing a compressor for example, so look for a warranty that covers both. Always hang on to the receipt to provide proof of purchase when you go to use the warranty.
Tuning Up Your Heating System
When it's time to tune up your heating and cooling system, consult your utility company. Most companies will have a certified technician or be able to provide you with a list of trained service technicians that may be available to perform this service for a fee. There are also precautions you can take to maintain and improve the condition of your heating system yourself.
Oil Furnaces and Boilers
Gas furnace or boilers should be cleaned and serviced annually. The exhaust pipe should be checked for loose connections or corrosion. Call the gas company immediately if gas odors are detected. Do not use anything with an open flame until this is checked out. Check for burn marks, which would indicate a draft or combustion problem. Check for oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air systems. This may indicate a cracked heat exchanger and a technician must be contacted.
Electric
Have a qualified technician inspect electric furnaces and boilers to ensure proper functioning and no loose or burned connections.
Heat Pumps/Cooling
Heat pumps require the attention of a qualified technician. The outdoor section should be level. If the outdoor component has settled or become uneven, adjustments should be made by a specialist. Most manufacturers advise keeping the outdoor component uncovered during the winter months to prevent rust. Always keep the outdoor unit clean.
Other
Check for creosote build up on wood stoves. Creosote may be spotted as an oily liquid that appears colorless to yellowish. It contains phenols and creosols as a result of destructive distillation of wood tar. Exposure to this substance can cause severe neurological disturbances if inhaled in strong concentrations. (Check for buildup more frequently in colder climates, where wood stove may be used more frequently)
Cooling System Do It Yourself Maintenance
When it comes time to tune up your heating and cooling system, consult your utility company. Most companies will have a certified technician or be able to provide you with a list of trained service technicians that may be available to perform this service for a fee. There are also steps you can take to maintain and improve the condition of your cooling system yourself.
Clear Obstructions
Keep outdoor condenser unit free from debris as needed. Make sure there are no obstructions near the unit that can block the flow of air. Clear out any grass, branches, or any other items that may have accumulated outdoors. If you find dirt or debris in the unit, you may need the assistance of a service technician.
Filters
Check air filters for spray foam insulation at the start of the cooling season and increase frequency to monthly during the season while in use, replacing as necessary. Clogged filters will block the flow of air, causing the system to work harder and may spread dirt throughout your home.
Locate the intake grill- this will be the one without the open and close lever on it, and remove the cover.
Take notice of the orientation of filters for spray foam insulation or interior components and replace them correctly after cleaning.
Wash the grill to remove all dirt and dust that may have accumulated. The air that is being pulled into this grill then travels through the ductwork, which may also need to be cleaned.
The ductwork for spray foam insulation can be cleaned with a long rag or a tube with a rag attached to it. Tape the rag to a section of hose or tubing about 5 feet long. Be sure to fasten securely as you do not want to lose the hose in the ducts. You will also need your vacuum and possibly a dust mask. Once you have swept the inside of the ducts with the rag, shake it out and vacuum up the dirt. When complete, replace the intake grill.
Electronic filters should be checked monthly and cleaned as needed. Read and follow manufacturers' instructions carefully. Examine inexpensive fiberglass filters once a month during the heating and cooling seasons. Pleated filters can last up to three months but must be replaced after this time. Permanent filters should be washed and rinsed monthly.
Clean the indoor coil once a year and fan blades once per year.
A dirty coil will also degrade the performance of the unit, causing it to work harder, wasting energy and money. You can clean the coil yourself. Simply remove the panel so that you can see the coil. Make sure that the coil is dry and clean it off with a cloth or the brush attachment on your vacuum cleaner. Take a look at the coil fins, checking to ensure that they are straight. A fin comb, found at a refrigeration supply store, can be used to straighten the fins if needed.
While you have the unit off and the panel open, you can also take care of cleaning the fan blades. Remove the air filter to access the fan enclosure area. Clean the blades in the same manner as the coil. Replace the filter and panel cover.
Clear the drain lines once per year.
You will need to consult a trained technician for this to be completed. The technician will use a high pressure vacuum to clear the drain.
Programmable Thermostat
Programmable thermostats offer savings, comfort and convenience. A programmable thermostat costs $85-$125 and can save $100-$300/household/year on heating and cooling costs and make your home more comfortable. You can set a program for your thermostat to follow, so you don't have to think about adjusting the temperature manually.
Most programmable thermostats are able to store and repeat multiple daily settings, several temperature settings per day and automatically adjust heating or air conditioning accordingly as the outside temperature changes. You can set your thermostat program to turn the heater (or air conditioner) on just before you are scheduled to get home so the temperature will already be comfortable when you arrive.
Information on the types of programmable thermostats and their benefits can be found on the Department of Energy's site. For even greater savings, check for rebates on the ENERGY STAR site and through your state energy office.
Installation Tips
Place thermostats away from direct sunlight, drafts, doorways, skylights, and windows. Also make sure your thermostat is conveniently located for programming.
Once the thermostat is installed you should keep the programming and operating directions, receipts, warranty (typically 1 year), and the manufacturer's contact information.
Heat & Cool Efficiently
As much as half of the energy used in your home goes to heating and cooling. So making smart decisions about your home's heating, ventilating, and air conditioning (HVAC) system can have a big effect on your utility bills — and your comfort. Take these steps to increase the efficiency of your heating and cooling system. For more information, see our Guide to Energy Efficient Heating & Cooling (708KB).
Change your air filter regularly
Check your filter every month, especially during heavy use months (winter and summer). If the filter looks dirty after a month, change it. At a minimum, change the filter every 3 months. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and make the system work harder to keep you warm or cool — wasting energy. A clean filter will also prevent dust and dirt from building up in the system — leading to expensive maintenance and/or early system failure.
Tune up your HVAC equipment yearly
Just as a tune-up for your car can improve your gas mileage, a yearly tune-up of your heating and cooling system can improve efficiency and comfort.
Install a programmable thermostat
A programmable thermostat is ideal for people who are away from home during set periods of time throughout the week. Through proper use of pre-programmed settings, a programmable thermostat can save you about $100 every year in energy costs.
Seal your heating and cooling ducts before installing
spray foam insulation
Ducts that move air to-and-from a forced air furnace, central air conditioner, or heat pump are often big energy wasters. Sealing and insulating ducts can improve the efficiency of your heating and cooling system by as much as 20 percent — and sometimes much more.
Focus first on sealing ducts that run through the attic, crawlspace, unheated basement, or garage. Use duct sealant (mastic) or metal-backed (foil) tape to seal the seams and connections of ducts. After sealing the ducts in those spaces, wrap the ducts in insulation to keep them from getting hot in the summer or cold in the winter. Next, seal ducts that you can access in the heated or cooled part of the house.
Consider installing ENERGY STAR qualified heating and cooling equipment
If your HVAC equipment is more than 10 years old
or not keeping your house comfortable, you should have it looked
at by a professional HVAC contractor. If it is not performing efficiently
or needs upgrading, consider replacing it with a unit that has earned
the ENERGY STAR.
Installed correctly, these high-efficiency heating and cooling units can save up to 20 percent on heating and cooling costs. But before you invest in a new HVAC system, make sure that you have addressed the big air leaks in your house and the duct system. Sometimes, these are the real sources of problems rather than your HVAC equipment.
Remember that getting the proper size and a quality
installation is essential to getting the most from your new equipment.
When replacing HVAC equipment, bigger doesn't always mean better.
If the unit is too large for your home, you will be less comfortable
and might actually have higher utility bills.
Oversized equipment will operate in short run cycles, not allowing the unit to reach efficient operation and remove humidity from the air — resulting in an uncomfortable home. Your contractor should determine the right size for your HVAC equipment by using ACCA/ANSI Manual J or an equivalent sizing calculation tool that takes into account specific information about your home.
All About Spray Foam Insulation (FAQ's)
The best protection for your home.
Spray-in-place polyurethane foam insulation represents a major innovation in energy efficiency and home construction quality. Spray foam insulation has enjoyed a long and successful track record in residential home construction. In fact, NCFI spray foam insulation has been contributing to home comfort since the 1960's.
When can spray foam be installed?
Spray foam insulation is professionally installed at the same point in the construction cycle as other types of insulation. That is, it should be installed after the rough plumbing, electrical wiring, and heating and air conditioning ducts have been installed, but before the interior walls are completed in new home construction. In some cases spray foam also can be applied in older homes, to the inside of roofs and under floors after construction has been completed.
How does spray foam work?
A two-part mixture is applied by trained professionals to the inside surface of exterior walls, to the underside of the roof, and beneath floors in basements and crawl spaces. The spray mixture expands rapidly to fill all cracks and voids, completely and permanently adhering to wood, masonry, metal studs and joists.
What types of spray foam products are available?
There are two basic types: closed-cell, rigid spray foam (like our InsulStar® product), and “soft” or semi-flexible open-cell spray foams (like our Sealite™ product). See the article Learning the Difference between 1/2-lb and 2-lb Spray Polyurethane Foam for more information.
Which is better, closed or open cell?
Both systems offer significant advantages over fiberglass
batting: ability to air seal; ability to fill cracks and conform
to odd shaped cavities; and ability to hold their shape over time
and under adverse conditions. But only closed-cell foam has the
thermal insulation value (R-value) to bring your home up to Energy
Star® standards with only one-half the thickness required for fiber
insulations.
In addition, closed-cell foam products increases the strength of you wall system (it's approximately doubled) and increase the water resistance of your home's exterior.
How does closed-cell spray foam provide moisture protection, yet still breathe?
Unlike cellulose and fiberglass materials, closed-cell foam is impervious to water absorption and wicking. Yet, like Gortex® fabric, the closed-cell structure allows the passage of water vapor (high energy particles) to allow your home envelope to “breathe”. Liquid water has much larger particles and is unable to pass into or through a closed-cell foam barrier.
What innovative energy saving techniques does spray polyurethane foam allow?
Several.
1. You won’t need house wrap with NCFI spray insulation. The air and moisture sealing effects of the spray polyurethane foam insulation are far superior to what house wraps can do. Don’t waste your money on house wrap if you are insulating with spray polyurethane foam.
2. You can encapsulate your entire exterior house shell with spray polyurethane. In effect, this creates conditioned space everywhere–including attics, basements, and crawl spaces. When ductwork is run through these areas, it is kept within conditioned space, substantially increasing the energy efficiency of your home. This reduces energy loss from recessed lights and drop ceilings while minimizing any chance of frozen pipes in colder climates.
3. Spray polyurethane insulation will conform to any size or shape cavity. Bay windows, oval windows, angled walls, sloped ceilings, or any other unusual framing designs can be well insulated and tightly sealed the same as the uniform spaced stud walls.
CAUTION: Do not try these insulation techniques with conventional glass fiber batts or blown-in cellulose.
What’s a "thermal barrier" and when is it needed?
A thermal barrier is a covering on the surface of the spray polyurethane foam insulation which will protect it for at least 15 minutes in the event of a fire. ½-inch gypsum wall board, such as Sheetrock®, is an approved 15 minute thermal barrier.
Building codes require the installation of a thermal barrier between foam plastics (such as spray polyurethane foam insulation) and any occupied space. Exceptions apply in some cases; review local codes and/or confer with your local building code officials.
The building code provides for an exception to the thermal barrier requirement in attics and crawl spaces where entry is made only for the service of utilities. In such cases, the spray polyurethane foam insulation must be protected from ignition. NCFI offers Aldocoat 757, a spray-on ignition barrier coating for these areas.
How does the NCFI spray polyurethane foam insulation seal my house?
NCFI spray polyurethane foam insulation is sprayed on as a liquid which reacts and expands in place. This expansion action also seals all of the cracks and crevasses in your wall’s exterior sheathing. The result is that air can no longer slip in: your house will be less drafty and more comfortable.
Air leakage can also introduce moisture into the wall cavity, resulting in wet insulation and mold and mildew. With the sealing effects of NCFI spray polyurethane insulation, this will not be a concern.
Won’t sealing my house lead to indoor air quality problems?
Your house does need to be ventilated. Most house
design professionals will advise you to seal the house structure
as tight as possible and provide the necessary ventilation through
the heating and air conditioning system.
Many systems employ an "air exchanger" which is designed to pre-condition (either warm or cool) the incoming outside air with the outgoing exhaust air. In this manner, you can build an extremely energy efficient exterior shell using spray polyurethane foam while still providing controlled and energy efficient ventilation.
Is spray polyurethane foam insulation code approved?
Yes. Building codes provide for the use of spray polyurethane foam insulation in the Foam Plastic section. This section of the code also describes the use of thermal barriers.
At what point in the construction of my house should spray polyurethane foam insulation be applied?
Normally spray polyurethane foam insulation is installed at the same point in the construction cycle as other types of insulation. That is, it should be installed after the rough plumbing, electrical wiring, and heating and air conditioning ducts have been installed. If you decide to seal the entire exterior house shell with spray polyurethane foam, spray insulation may need to be applied in some areas before the ductwork is installed.
Can I use NCFI spray polyurethane foam to insulate an existing home?
Spray polyurethane insulation is used primarily to insulate new homes. This is because spray polyurethane foam must be applied to an open cavity. When spray polyurethane is injected into a closed wall cavity, the pressure of the expanding insulation may damage the wall.
Consider insulating an existing home with spray polyurethane foam when you’re replacing the exterior siding or doing other major remodeling.
How does spray polyurethane foam insulation compare with glass fiber batts and blown-in cellulose?
1. Glass fiber batts will not stop air leakage (it might filter out some dirt and dust). Blown-in cellulose will slow down air leakage. Spray polyurethane insulation will stop air leakage . . . dead.
2. Glass fiber batts have an R-value of about 3.5 (1-inch thickness). Blown-in cellulose has an R-value of about 3 to 4 (1-inch thickness). Spray applied polyurethane insulation has an R-value of 6.5 to 7 (1-inch thickness).
3. Glass fiber batts can sag over time; blown-in cellulose can settle over time: both situations leave sections uninsulated and you’ll feel colder because of it. Spray polyurethane insulation completely adheres to wood and sheathing and is rigid; the result is a permanent barrier to heat loss and air entry.
4. Spray polyurethane insulation will add strength and rigidity to your house. Glass fiber batts and blown-in cellulose will not.
Will I save money if I insulate with NCFI spray polyurethane foam insulation?
Yes! The installed cost of spray polyurethane foam is somewhat higher than glass fiber batts or blown-in cellulose. However, the higher initial cost is partially offset because you can leave off the house wrap and your heating and air conditioning equipment can be smaller.
You will save in your heating fuel and electric bills. Studies suggest that homes insulated with spray polyurethane foam use 20 to 40 % less energy than homes insulated with conventional insulation. Your savings may be greater or less depending on your life style, appliances, house site, number and size of windows, etc. One home owner from Colorado Springs reported the following to us:
"We live at 8,000 feet above sea level and have been through some severely cold winters. In our old house, which was 2,600 square feet and insulated with 3 ½-inch batts, our winter gas heating bill was about $130 per month. Our new house has 6,000 square feet of living area and 3 inches of spray foam in the walls. Our highest monthly winter gas bill has been $80. One of the main differences was the lack of drafts in our new home."
Will spray polyurethane foam insulation lose R-value over time?
When first installed, spray polyurethane foam foam’s R-value is about 10 for a one-inch thickness. Over time, the R-value drops to between 6.5 and 7.0 (one inch) and stabilizes at that value. The time it takes to reach an R-value of 6.5 to 7.0 depends on a variety of factors, including total foam thickness. We report a six-month aged R-value. Many industry studies indicate that a one-inch thick sample of foam will stabilize after six months and maintain that approximate R-value for decades.
Can spray polyurethane foam insulation be applied directly to electrical wiring? What about installed electrical devices like recessed lights?
Spray polyurethane can be applied directly to electrical wiring. Recessed lights or other fixtures may require a certain amount of air circulation around them for cooling purposes. In these cases, a box can be build around the fixture with gypsum wall board; then spray foam can be sprayed directly to the outside of the box.
Will spray polyurethane foam insulation deteriorate over time?
Not that we’re aware of. We’ve looked at 20-year old spray foam projects and we have not observed any signs of deterioration. We expect the NCFI spray polyurethane insulation system to insulate and seal your home for the life of the house.
How long has spray polyurethane foam been used to insulate houses?
Spray polyurethane foam was commercially developed in the United States in the mid-1960's. Homes have been insulated with spray foam since that time.
What smells does spray polyurethane foam insulation produce in my home?
A slight odor will be present during installation of spray polyurethane foam insulation. This will rapidly dissipate after the spraying operation stops. After that, the installed spray polyurethane foam insulation will be odorless.
Will spray polyurethane foam insulation absorb or entrap moisture?
Most moisture problems in houses are due to moisture entry from air leakage. Because spray polyurethane foam insulation provides such an excellent air barrier, this source of moisture is virtually eliminated. Other potential sources of moisture can be excluded with proper construction techniques and materials. Unusual building use (such as freezers or swimming pool buildings) may require a vapor retarder. Contact NCFI regarding your specific situation if you have any questions.
Does spray polyurethane foam contain formaldehyde?
No.
What equipment do I need to apply spray polyurethane foam insulation?
Required equipment elements include a plural component proportioner pump with heaters, dual high pressure heated hoses, high pressure mixing and spray gun, and feed pumps and hoses. In addition, an air compressor and electrical generator may be needed.
Can a homeowner apply spray polyurethane foam insulation?
Not practically. Spray polyurethane application requires complex equipment and a skilled installer.
Will spray polyurethane foam insulation strengthen my house?
Yes! NCFI InsulStar® foam is rigid and structural. Your walls will be more resistant to winds and you’ll notice less creaking and shaking when doors are slammed or when the kids are romping about. See our web page on Wall Strength for more information.
How long does it take to install spray polyurethane foam insulation?
Quite quickly. A typical house can be fully insulated with spray polyurethane foam in a day or less. Large houses or houses with complex design features could take longer.
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NOTE: Spray rigs for commercial and residential foam insulation have the best spray foam equipment for foam insulation contractors. Spray on insulation is usually urethane foam insulation. Expanding foam insulation, closed cell foam insulation is used by insulation contractors for foam wall and pipe insulation. Remember, urethane foam and polyurethane insulation are good for wall insulation. FULL PROFITABILITY WILL RISE WITH THE PROPER EQUIPMENT! CAN BE SENT AT DISCOUNT PRICES. YOU CAN BUY NOW OR RENT. EQUIPMENT IS ON SALE WITH A PRICE COST OF LOW DOLLARS AND CENTS. REFUND IS OFTEN IN CASH IF NOT SATISFIED. IF YOU DECIDE TO BUILD YOUR OWN (DIY) YOU CAN OFTEN UTILIZE LEFTOVERS FROM FACTORY SECONDS, SURPLUS , DISCONTINUED MERCHANDISE, GARAGE CLEAN OUTS, WAREHOUSE CLEANOUT, RETAIL CLOSEOUTS, ITEMS FROM FACTORY REJECTS, OUT OF BUSINESS SALES & FACTORY CLEAN OUTS. FINALLY, DON'T OVERLOOK CLOSEOUTS! WHEN BUYING ONLINE, PAYPAL, MASTERCARD, DISCOVER, AMERICAN EXPRESS, AND VISA ARE ALMOST ALWAYS ACCEPTED. RENTALS OF FIRST AND SECOND QUALITY ARE POSSIBLE. SPECIAL PRICES ALWAYS APPEAR AT CLOSEOUT AND DISTRESSED SALES. WE DO NOT BROKER OR BUY THESE ITEMS FOR RESALE. ORDINARILY, THE SALE PRICE IS FINAL FOR USED EQUIPMENT, REPOSSESSIONS, JUNK, INSURANCE SALVAGE OR FREIGHT SALVAGE. DISTRESSED MERCHANDISE CAN BE A GOOD SOURCE OF GENERAL SUPPLY FOR INDUSTRIAL MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS. AGAIN, BUY NOW, BUY NOW, BUY NOW. THE SALE PRICE MAY NEVER BE LOWER. SAVE $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $ $. |
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expandinh expandinng expandint expandinv expandiny expandjng expandkng expandng expandnig expandong expandung expaneing expanfing expanidng expaning expannding expanring expansing expanxing expnading expnding exppanding expqnding expsnding expwnding expznding exxpanding ezpanding f0am f8berglass f9am f9berglass fam faom fberglass fbierglass fell fellulose fesidential ffiberglass ffoam fhermal fiam fib3rglass fib4rglass fibberglass fibdrglass fibe4glass fibe5glass fibedglass fibeeglass fibeerglass fibefglass fibeglass fibegrlass fiberblass fiberflass fibergalss fibergass fibergglass fibergkass fiberglaas fiberglaass fiberglads fiberglaes fiberglas fiberglas fiberglasa fiberglasd fiberglase fiberglass fiberglass fiberglass fiberglasss fiberglasss fiberglasw fiberglasx fiberglasz fiberglaws fiberglaxs fiberglazs fibergllass fiberglqss fiberglsas fiberglss fiberglsss fiberglwss fiberglzss fibergoass fibergpass fiberhlass fiberlass fiberlgass fiberrglass fibertlass fibervlass fiberylass fibetglass fibreglass fibrglass fibrrglass fibsrglass fibwrglass fiebrglass fierglass figerglass figid figs fiherglass fiiberglass finerglass fiverglass fiy fjberglass fkam fkberglass flam flosed fo foa foaam foaj foak foam foam foamm foan foberglass fom foma fommercial fontractor fontractors fooam foof foqm fosm fost fowm fozm fpam fraco fuberglass g4aco g5aco gaco garco gasement gdaco geaco gfaco ggraco ghermal giberglass glown goam goard gome gouse graaco grac grac0 grac9 gracco graci grack gracl graco graco gracoo gracp grado grafo grao graoc gravo graxo grcao grco grqco grraco grsco grwco grzco gtaco guilding gusiness h0me h0use h9me h9use hasement hermal hhome hhouse hime hiuse hkme hkuse hlme hlown hluse hme hmoe ho7se ho8se hoard hoe hoem hohse hoise hoje hojse hoke hom hom3 hom4 homd home home homee homme homr homs homw hone hoome hoouse hose hosue houae houde houe houee houes hous hous3 hous4 housd house house housee housr houss housse housw houuse houwe houxe houze hoyse hpme hpuse hraco hrethane htermal huilding huose huse husiness i i i5 i6 ib iberglass ibstallation ibsulation ic6nene ic7nene iccynene icgnene ichnene icnene icnyene ictnene icunene icybene icyene icyenne icyhene icyjene icymene icyn3ne icyn4ne icyndne icynebe icynee icyneen icyneene icynehe icyneje icyneme icynen icynen3 icynen4 icynend icynene icynene icynenee icynenne icynenr icynens icynenw icynne icynnee icynnene icynrne icynsne icynwne icyynene idy idynene if ifberglass ifynene ig igid igs ih ihstallation ihsulation iicynene iin iinstallation iinsulation iit iit iits ij ijstallation ijsulation ikt ikts im imstallation imsulation in in in inatallation inaulation indtallation indulation inetallation ineulation inn innstallation innsulation ins5allation ins6allation ins7lation ins8lation insallation insatllation insfallation insgallation inshlation insilation insjlation inslation insluation insrallation insstallation inssulation instaallation instaklation instalaltion instalation instalation instalkation installa5ion installa6ion installaation installafion installagion installaion installaiton installarion installat8on installat9on installati0n installati9n installatiin installatiion installatikn installatiln installatin installatino installatio installatiob installatioh installatioj installatiom installation installation installation installationn installatioon installatipn installatjon installatkon installatoin installaton installatoon installattion installatuon installayion installlation installlation installqtion installstion installtaion installtion installwtion installztion instaloation instalpation instaolation instaplation instlalation instllation instqllation instsllation insttallation instwllation instzllation insualtion insuation insukation insula5ion insula6ion insulaation insulafion insulagion insulaion insulaiton insularion insulat8on insulat9on insulati0n insulati9n insulatiin insulatiion insulatikn insulatiln insulatin insulatino insulatio insulatiob insulatioh insulatioj insulatiom insulation insulation insulationn insulatioon insulatipn insulatjon insulatkon insulatoin insulaton insulatoon insulattion insulatuon insulayion insullation insulqtion insulstion insultaion insultion insulwtion insulztion insuoation insupation insuulation insyallation insylation intallation intsallation inulation inuslation inwtallation inwulation inxtallation inxulation inztallation inzulation ipe ippe ir irethane irgid irgs isntallation isnulation istallation isulation it it it its itt ivynene ixynene iy iy iycnene iynene jcynene jit jits jn jnstallation jnsulation jome jouse jrethane jt k8t k8ts k9t k9ts kcynene ki ki5 ki5s ki6 ki6s kif kifs kig kigs kiit kiits kir kirs kis kist kit kit kit kita kitd kite kits kits kitss kitt kitts kitw kitx kitz kiy kiys kjt kjts kkit kkits kkt kkts kn kn knstallation knsulation koft kot kots kt kt kti ktis kts kut kuts l0ft l9ft la lbown lcosed lfot lft lift lipe lit lits lkft llft lloft ln loct lodt lof lof5 lof6 loff lofft lofg lofr loft loft loftt lofy logt lolyurethane looft lort losed lot lotf lott lovt lown lpft lroofing mit mits n n nasement ni nistallation nisulation nlown no noard nome nouse nstallation nsulation nuilding nusiness o o oa oam oard ob obard ocmmercial ocntractor ocntractors ocst ocynene od ofam oft oh ohme ohuse oipe oit oits oj olft olyurethane om ome ommercial on on on onn onstallation onsulation ontractor ontractors oof ooft oolyurethane oon oplyurethane orof oroofing ost osund osy ot ound ouse oy p p0lyurethane p4oofing p5oofing p8pe p9lyurethane p9pe pa pa paa pdoofing peoofing pfoofing pi0e pie piep piipe pile pilyurethane pioe pip pip3 pip4 pipd pipe pipe pipee pippe pipr pips pipw pjpe pklyurethane pkpe pllyurethane ployurethane plyurethane pn poft pokyurethane pol6urethane pol7urethane polgurethane polhurethane pollyurethane polturethane polurethane poluurethane poluyrethane poly7rethane poly8rethane polyhrethane polyirethane polyjrethane polyrethane polyruethane polyu4ethane polyu5ethane polyudethane polyueethane polyuerthane polyuethane polyufethane polyur3thane polyur4thane polyurdthane polyure5hane polyure6hane polyureethane polyurefhane polyureghane polyurehane polyurehtane polyurerhane polyuretahne polyuretane polyuretbane polyuretgane polyurethaane polyurethabe polyurethae polyurethaen polyurethahe polyurethaje polyurethame polyurethan polyurethan3 polyurethan4 polyurethand polyurethane polyurethane polyurethanee polyurethanne polyurethanr polyurethans polyurethanw polyurethhane polyurethnae polyurethne polyurethqne polyurethsne polyurethwne polyurethzne polyuretjane polyuretnane polyuretthane polyuretuane polyuretyane polyureyhane polyurrethane polyurrthane polyursthane polyurtehane polyurthane polyurwthane polyutethane polyuurethane polyyrethane polyyurethane poofing poolyurethane pooyurethane pope popyurethane porofing poylurethane poyurethane ppa ppe ppie ppipe pplyurethane ppolyurethane pproofing pq pr0ofing pr9ofing pray prayed priofing prkofing prlofing pro0fing pro9fing profing profing profoing proifing prokfing prolfing proocing prooding proof8ng proof9ng prooffing proofibg proofig proofign proofihg proofiing proofijg proofimg proofin proofinb proofinf proofing proofing proofing proofingg proofinh proofinng proofint proofinv proofiny proofjng proofkng proofng proofnig proofong proofung prooging prooifng prooing prooofing prooofing prooring prooting prooving propfing prpofing prroofing ps psray psrayed ptoofing pupe pw pz qall qeuipment qttic quipment r0of r3sidential r4sidential r8gid r8gs r9gid r9gs r9of raco rdsidential reaidential redidential reeidential reesidential reidential reisdential res8dential res9dential resdential resdiential resicential resid3ntial resid4ntial residdential residdntial residebtial resideential residehtial residejtial residemtial residen5ial residen6ial residenfial residengial residenial residenital residenntial residenrial resident8al resident9al residentail 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rooff roofing roog rooof rooof roor root roov ropf rpof rpoofing rquipment rresidential rrigid rrigs rroof rrsidential rseidential rsidential rssidential ruethane rugid rugs rwsidential rxpanding s0ray s0rayed s0und s0y s5yrofoam s6yrofoam s9und s9y sall sfyrofoam sgyrofoam siund siy siy skund sky slray slrayed slund sly so so so6 so7 so7nd so8nd sog soh sohnd soind sojnd sond sonud soound sooy soray sorayed sot sou soubd soud soudn souhd soujd soumd soun sounc sound sound soundd soune sounf sounnd sounr souns sounx souund soy soy soynd soyy sp4ay sp4ayed sp5ay sp5ayed spary sparyed spay spayed spday spdayed speay speayed spfay spfayed sppray spprayed spra spra6 spra6ed spra7 spra7ed spraay spraayed spraed spraeyd sprag spraged sprah sprahed sprat sprated sprau spraued spray spray spray3d spray4d sprayd spraydd sprayde spraye sprayec sprayed sprayed sprayedd sprayee sprayeed sprayef sprayer sprayes sprayex sprayrd spraysd spraywd sprayy sprayyed sprqy sprqyed sprray sprrayed sprsy sprsyed sprwy sprwyed spry sprya spryaed spryed sprzy sprzyed sptay sptayed spund spy squipment sray srayed srpay srpayed sryrofoam ssound ssoy sspray ssprayed sstyrofoam st6rofoam st7rofoam stgrofoam sthrofoam strofoam stryofoam sttic sttrofoam sttyrofoam sturofoam sty4ofoam sty5ofoam stydofoam styeofoam styfofoam styofoam styorfoam styr0foam styr9foam styrfoam styrfooam styrifoam styrkfoam styrlfoam styrocoam styrodoam styrof0am styrof9am styrofam styrofaom styroffoam styrofiam styrofkam styroflam styrofoa styrofoaam styrofoaj styrofoak styrofoam styrofoam styrofoamm styrofoan styrofom styrofoma styrofooam styrofoqm styrofosm styrofowm styrofozm styrofpam styrogoam styrooam styroofam styroofoam styroroam styrotoam styrovoam styrpfoam styrrofoam stytofoam styyrofoam sund suond sxpanding sy syo syrofoam sytrofoam syyrofoam t tatic tbermal tehrmal termal tesidential tgermal th3rmal th4rmal thdrmal the4mal the5mal thedmal theemal theermal thefmal themal themral theral theraml therjal therkal therma thermaal thermak thermal thermal thermall thermao thermap therml thermla thermmal thermql thermsl thermwl thermzl thernal therrmal thetmal thhermal thremal thrmal thrrmal thsrmal thwrmal ti tiberglass tigid tigs tjermal tnermal toam toof traco tsyrofoam tthermal ttic tuermal tyermal tyrofoam u4ethane u5ethane ubilding ubsiness ucynene udethane ueethane uerthane uethane ufethane uilding un unstallation unsulation uome uouse ur3thane ur4thane urdthane ure5hane ure6hane ureethane urefhane ureghane urehane urehtane urerhane uretahne uretane uretbane uretgane urethaane urethabe urethae urethaen urethahe urethaje urethame urethan urethan3 urethan4 urethand urethane urethane urethanee urethanne urethanr urethans urethanw urethhane urethnae urethne urethqne urethsne urethwne urethzne uretjane uretnane uretthane uretuane uretyane ureyhane urrethane urrthane ursthane urtehane urthane urwthane usiness ut utethane uurethane vasement vell vellulose viberglass vlosed vlown voam voard vommercial vontractor vontractors vost vraco vuilding vusiness waall wakl wal wal walk wall wall wall walll walll walo walp waol wapl wlal wll wound woy wpray wprayed wqll wquipment wsll wttic wtyrofoam wwall wwll wxpanding wzll xell xellulose xepanding xiy xlosed xo xommercial xontractor xontractors xost xound xoy xpanding xpray xprayed xtyrofoam yhermal yome youse yraco yrethane zound zoy zpray zprayed zttic ztyrofoam spray rigs ttic atic atic attc atti asement bsement baement basment baseent basemnt basemet basemen lown bown blwn blon blow oard bard bord boad boar uilding bilding bulding buiding builing buildng buildig buildin usiness bsiness buiness busness busiess businss busines busines ell cll cel cel ellulose cllulose celulose celulose celllose celluose cellulse celluloe cellulos losed cosed clsed cloed closd close ommercial cmmercial comercial comercial commrcial commecial commerial commercal commercil commercia ontractor cntractor cotractor conractor contactor contrctor contrator contracor contractr contracto ontractors cntractors cotractors conractors contactors contrctors contrators contracors contractrs contractos contractor ost cst cot cos iy dy di o d quipment euipment eqipment equpment equiment equipent equipmnt equipmet equipmen xpanding epanding exanding expnding expading expaning expandng expandig expandin iberglass fberglass fierglass fibrglass fibeglass fiberlass fibergass fiberglss fiberglas fiberglas oam fam fom foa raco gaco grco grao grac ome hme hoe hom ouse huse hose houe hous cynene iynene icnene icyene icynne icynee icynen n i nstallation istallation intallation insallation instllation instalation instalation installtion installaion installaton installatin installatio nsulation isulation inulation inslation insuation insultion insulaion insulaton insulatin insulatio t i it kt ki its kts kis kit oft lft lot lof n o a p ipe ppe pie pip olyurethane plyurethane poyurethane polurethane polyrethane polyuethane polyurthane polyurehane polyuretane polyurethne polyurethae polyurethan roofing poofing profing profing prooing proofng proofig proofin esidential rsidential reidential resdential resiential residntial residetial residenial residental residentil residentia igid rgid riid rigd rigi igs rgs ris rig oof rof rof roo ound sund sond soud soun oy sy so pray sray spay spry spra prayed srayed spayed spryed spraed sprayd spraye tyrofoam syrofoam strofoam styofoam styrfoam styrooam styrofam styrofom styrofoa hermal termal thrmal themal theral therml therma rethane uethane urthane urehane uretane urethne urethae urethan all wll wal wal aattic atttic atttic attiic atticc bbasement baasement bassement baseement basemment basemeent basemennt basementt bblown bllown bloown blowwn blownn bboard booard boaard boarrd boardd bbuilding buuilding buiilding buillding buildding buildiing buildinng buildingg bbusiness buusiness bussiness busiiness businness busineess businesss businesss ccell ceell celll celll ccellulose ceellulose celllulose celllulose celluulose cellullose celluloose cellulosse cellulosee cclosed cllosed cloosed clossed closeed closedd ccommercial coommercial commmercial commmercial commeercial commerrcial commerccial commerciial commerciaal commerciall ccontractor coontractor conntractor conttractor contrractor contraactor contracctor contracttor contractoor contractorr ccontractors coontractors conntractors conttractors contrractors contraactors contracctors contracttors contractoors contractorrs contractorss ccost coost cosst costt ddiy diiy diyy ddo doo eequipment eqquipment equuipment equiipment equippment equipmment equipmeent equipmennt equipmentt eexpanding exxpanding exppanding expaanding expannding expandding expandiing expandinng expandingg ffiberglass fiiberglass fibberglass fibeerglass fiberrglass fibergglass fibergllass fiberglaass fiberglasss fiberglasss ffoam fooam foaam foamm ggraco grraco graaco gracco gracoo hhome hoome homme homee hhouse hoouse houuse housse housee iicynene iccynene icyynene icynnene icyneene icynenne icynenee iin inn iinstallation innstallation insstallation insttallation instaallation installlation installlation installaation installattion installatiion installatioon installationn iinsulation innsulation inssulation insuulation insullation insulaation insulattion insulatiion insulatioon insulationn iit itt kkit kiit kitt kkits kiits kitts kitss lloft looft lofft loftt oon onn ppa paa ppipe piipe pippe pipee ppolyurethane poolyurethane pollyurethane polyyurethane polyuurethane polyurrethane polyureethane polyuretthane polyurethhane polyurethaane polyurethanne polyurethanee pproofing prroofing prooofing prooofing prooffing proofiing proofinng proofingg rresidential reesidential ressidential resiidential residdential resideential residenntial residenttial residentiial residentiaal residentiall rrigid riigid riggid rigiid rigidd rrigs riigs riggs rigss rroof rooof rooof rooff ssound soound souund sounnd soundd ssoy sooy soyy sspray sppray sprray spraay sprayy ssprayed spprayed sprrayed spraayed sprayyed sprayeed sprayedd sstyrofoam sttyrofoam styyrofoam styrrofoam styroofoam styroffoam styrofooam styrofoaam styrofoamm tthermal thhermal theermal therrmal thermmal thermaal thermall uurethane urrethane ureethane uretthane urethhane urethaane urethanne urethanee wwall waall walll walll tatic atitc attci atti c absement bsaement baesment basmeent baseemnt basemnet basemetn basemen t lbown bolwn blwon blonw blow n obard baord borad boadr boar d ubilding biulding buliding buidling builidng buildnig buildign buildin g ubsiness bsuiness buisness busniess busienss businses busines s ecll clel cel l ecllulose clelulose celullose cellluose celluolse cellulsoe celluloes cellulos e lcosed colsed clsoed cloesd closde close d ocmmercial cmomercial comemrcial commrecial commecrial commerical commercail commercila commercia l ocntractor cnotractor cotnractor conrtactor contarctor contrcator contratcor contracotr contractro contracto r ocntractors cnotractors cotnractors conrtactors contarctors contrcators contratcors contracotrs contractros contractosr contractor s ocst csot cots cos t idy dyi di y od d o qeuipment euqipment eqiupment equpiment equimpent equipemnt equipmnet equipmetn equipmen t xepanding epxanding exapnding expnading expadning expanidng expandnig expandign expandin g ifberglass fbierglass fiebrglass fibreglass fibegrlass fiberlgass fibergalss fiberglsas fiberglas s ofam faom foma foa m rgaco garco grcao graoc grac o ohme hmoe hoem hom e ohuse huose hosue houes hous e ciynene iycnene icnyene icyenne icynnee icyneen icynen e ni i n nistallation isntallation intsallation insatllation instlalation instalaltion installtaion installaiton installatoin installatino installatio n nisulation isnulation inuslation insluation insualtion insultaion insulaiton insulatoin insulatino insulatio n ti i t ikt kti ki t ikts ktis kist kit s olft lfot lotf lof t no o n ap p a ippe ppie piep pip e oplyurethane ployurethane poylurethane poluyrethane polyruethane polyuerthane polyurtehane polyurehtane polyuretahne polyurethnae polyurethaen polyurethan e rpoofing porofing profoing prooifng proofnig proofign proofin g ersidential rseidential reisdential resdiential resiedntial residnetial residetnial residenital residentail residentila residentia l irgid rgiid riigd rigdi rigi d irgs rgis risg rig s orof rofo roo f osund suond sonud soudn soun d osy syo so y psray srpay spary sprya spra y psrayed srpayed sparyed spryaed spraeyd sprayde spraye d tsyrofoam sytrofoam stryofoam styorfoam styrfooam styroofam styrofaom styrofoma styrofoa m htermal tehrmal thremal themral theraml thermla therma l ruethane uerthane urtehane urehtane uretahne urethnae urethaen urethan e awll wlal qttic wttic sttic xttic zttic artic a5tic a6tic aytic ahtic agtic aftic atric at5ic at6ic atyic athic atgic atfic attuc att8c att9c attoc attlc attkc attjc attix attid attif attiv vasement gasement hasement nasement bqsement bwsement bssement bxsement bzsement baaement bawement baeement badement baxement bazement baswment bas3ment bas4ment basrment basfment basdment bassment basenent basejent basekent basemwnt basem3nt basem4nt basemrnt basemfnt basemdnt basemsnt basemebt basemeht basemejt basememt basemenr basemen5 basemen6 basemeny basemenh basemeng basemenf vlown glown hlown nlown bkown boown bpown bliwn bl9wn bl0wn blpwn bllwn blkwn bloqn blo2n blo3n bloen blodn blosn bloan blowb blowh blowj blowm voard goard hoard noard biard b9ard b0ard bpard blard bkard boqrd bowrd bosrd boxrd bozrd boaed boa4d boa5d boatd boagd boafd boadd boars boare boarr boarf boarc boarx vuilding guilding huilding nuilding byilding b7ilding b8ilding biilding bkilding bjilding bhilding buulding bu8lding bu9lding buolding bullding buklding bujlding buikding buioding buipding builsing buileing builring builfing builcing builxing buildung build8ng build9ng buildong buildlng buildkng buildjng buildibg buildihg buildijg buildimg buildinf buildint buildiny buildinh buildinb buildinv vusiness gusiness husiness nusiness bysiness b7siness b8siness bisiness bksiness bjsiness bhsiness buainess buwiness bueiness budiness buxiness buziness busuness bus8ness bus9ness busoness buslness buskness busjness busibess busihess busijess busimess businwss busin3ss busin4ss businrss businfss busindss businsss busineas businews businees busineds businexs businezs businesa businesw businese businesd businesx businesz xell dell fell vell cwll c3ll c4ll crll cfll cdll csll cekl ceol cepl celk celo celp xellulose dellulose fellulose vellulose cwllulose c3llulose c4llulose crllulose cfllulose cdllulose csllulose ceklulose ceolulose ceplulose celkulose celoulose celpulose cellylose cell7lose cell8lose cellilose cellklose celljlose cellhlose cellukose celluoose cellupose cellulise cellul9se cellul0se cellulpse cellullse cellulkse celluloae cellulowe celluloee cellulode celluloxe celluloze cellulosw cellulos3 cellulos4 cellulosr cellulosf cellulosd celluloss xlosed dlosed flosed vlosed ckosed coosed cposed clised cl9sed cl0sed clpsed cllsed clksed cloaed clowed cloeed cloded cloxed clozed closwd clos3d clos4d closrd closfd closdd clossd closes closee closer closef closec closex xommercial dommercial fommercial vommercial cimmercial c9mmercial c0mmercial cpmmercial clmmercial ckmmercial conmercial cojmercial cokmercial comnercial comjercial comkercial commwrcial comm3rcial comm4rcial commrrcial commfrcial commdrcial commsrcial commeecial comme4cial comme5cial commetcial commegcial commefcial commedcial commerxial commerdial commerfial commervial commercual commerc8al commerc9al commercoal commerclal commerckal commercjal commerciql commerciwl commercisl commercixl commercizl commerciak commerciao commerciap xontractor dontractor fontractor vontractor cintractor c9ntractor c0ntractor cpntractor clntractor ckntractor cobtractor cohtractor cojtractor comtractor conrractor con5ractor con6ractor conyractor 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